Cap Feret to Dune de Pilat - Livin' the Dream: France to Portugal 2021 - CycleBlaze

September 25, 2021

Cap Feret to Dune de Pilat

The rain was steady when we woke so we procrastinated for a while before digging out the raincoats.  It was the first time in four weeks that we had to  break camp in the rain so breakfast was just a quick croissant with no coffee and we were loaded to leave.   The sky cleared as we rode a bicycle path through the damp pine forest that brought us out to the ferry with enough time to buy tickets and use the loo, but not for coffee!  

The sun was now fully out shining on the expanse of water dotted with boaters heading out for a leisurely Saturday morning cruise and most of our fellow ferry passengers were families or groups with picnic baskets.  

It was lunchtime when we docked at Arcachon and we were starving so we quickly found a suitable sidewalk cafe and ordered two of the special fisherman's platter followed by that long awaited coffee.  With our 'crawled out of the tent in the rain' faces, hair and cycling outfits we rather stood out, but fully appreciated the fashionable Saturday shopping and lunching patrons who managed to look chic and comfortable in their sharp yellow pants, bright white sneakers and flowing dresses.  Fortified, we headed out admiring the beautiful houses, old and new, in this town that is obviously popular with the well-to-do, and the scenery along the waterfront.

Just at the south end of town is the Dune of Pilat, the largest sand dune in Europe.  Although we could see it from across the basin last night, it was truly impressive standing right at the base and it was obviously a popular destination for a sunny Saturday outing.  I always like to see a natural attraction that involves some effort being appreciated by a variety of people, and the Dune was being scaled by families with young children, serious hikers with trekking poles and (this being France) groups of lovely young women and men carrying wicker baskets with wine bottles clinking dressed as if they were lunching at a fancy downtown cafe.  We were inspired to see the view from the top, but this is is an example of when cycle touring can be a bit of a drag.  With everything we own on the bikes, we couldn't just lock them to the nearest railing and take off up the dune; we considered taking turns doing the hike, but it would have been a long couple of hours for the person watching the bikes.  Instead we decided to make this our night stop and pulled into one of the campgrounds at the base of the dune.  With everything somewhat secure in the tent, we could do the climb.

The inland side was steeper than the shore, but a month of cycling must be improving our stamina as it took us only 15 minutes to climb to the top.  The view was indeed stunning and well worth the changed plan.  We'll put in a panorama video so you can see for yourself.  We also tried to get that classic photo, looking up at the person jumping off the top with sand blowing.  Somehow it wasn't as dramatic as hoped, but maybe we aren't as agile as when I took those same shots at the dunes in Qatar.  Now that we've learned to embed videos, well include one of that too!

The good is only measurable when compared to the bad, and one never knows when an otherwise perfect day will take a turn for the worse.  In this case it was around 11pm when we first heard the music. It seems the dune acts as an amphitheatre and the concert-party from a couple of km away sounded much, much closer.  Mercifully the rain at 2am masked the sound literally putting a damper on the party and we slept well for the rest of the night. 

On the ferry
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Arcachon beach
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Art on the beach
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Scott AndersonVery evocative.
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3 years ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Scott AndersonYes, here is part of the text that went with the sculpture
“What ever our itinerary, vagabond or more sedentary, here is what will remain of us, ephemeral travellers on this earth: a bit of material, a pair of shoes, a suitcase .” I don’t know about you but it makes me glad I am spending some of my time traveling this beautiful world. Definitely have your today’s route on my bucket list. Thanks
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3 years ago
Who is that in the orange safety cycling shirt?
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Kite surfers
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Dune de Pilat from the basin
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Dune from the campground
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Starting up the stairs
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Steep climb
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From the top looking south
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Looking out to sea
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bill wearyjane here
looks amazing and weren't you lucky with the weather!
You're right - something seriously gone wrong with your dune jumping photographic skill
xxxxx
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3 years ago
From the top looking north to Arcachon
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Today's ride: 25 km (16 miles)
Total: 901 km (560 miles)

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Rob WearyEnjoyed the videos of the sand dune! I was wondering if there was a significance to the statues with the suitcases? It seems vaguely similar to the "Shoes on the Danube Bank" that we saw in Budapest.
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3 years ago
Margaret Anne CameronWow! I am beginning to understand why travel is such a thrill. So many spectacular vistas to experience. Those sand dunes are unbelievable. Found myself chuckling while reading your description of crawling out in the rain faces when you finally got to the ferry. Love reading your posts. Enjoy your trip. Sending best wishes for continued sunny days and safety as you move about. Hugs from NB.
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3 years ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Margaret Anne CameronHi MA
Thanks for reading the blog! Yes traveling can be addictive. Can’t believe it’s a month already. We have two more nights in France.
Hope your fall is going well.
Sending hugs to you and Paul.
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3 years ago