February 10, 2018
Lago Desierto: A tough day that ends with the most incredible view
Last night we took a bunk bed in the hostel at El Mosco so that we wouldn't be saddled with packing up in the cold and dark. The alarm went off at five o'clock and we had a below zero temperature cycle to get to the ferry port at Lago O'Higgins at seven o'clock. Apart from Ninon, Jay and Jillian, the other cyclists on the boat were an American father and his adult son plus a Spanish speaking rider. Toby and Leslie had taken yesterday afternoon's ferry.
The bikes were loaded onto the ferry, two bikes having their wheels removed so they could fit inside the cabin, and we set off off for the two and a half hour journey to (???? can't remember the name right now).
Once the bikes were unloaded, we made our way up to the immigration office about a kilometer away. This involved the first of what would become a lot of bike walking for the day. Checking out of Chile was quick and easy with friendly officials. Then it was a slog to reach the long sloping plateau near the real border of Chile and Argentina. Jay was having problems with his rear disk brake making dreadful noises which he eventually fixed by replacing the pads just before reaching the plateau. Here we were treated to the mind blowing experience of seeing Fitzroy for the first time.
Once we reached the border the infamous single track started. On an unloaded MTB this could be fun but for a cyclist with a loaded touring bike it is unfortunately a long and energy sapping slog.
The little immigration office and jetty at Lago Desierto was a welcome site. The large open area to the east of the office was already littered with tents of hikers doing the journey from or to El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins and we found a spot with a lovely view of Fitzroy and setup for the night. The bicycles are filthy and I will have to give them a bit of a clean before we catch the ferry across Lago Desierto at a quarter to eleven tomorrow.
One of the first folk we saw in the wild camping area was Jonas, a Belgian guy we had camped with in Puyuhuapi. He had just caught two trout and said that the lake was teeming with fish. Jay, Jillian and Ninon had also decided to delay catching the boat to the other side of the lake so that they could enjoy the evening views of Fitzroy this evening and tomorrow morning.
Today's ride: 29 km (18 miles)
Total: 1,217 km (756 miles)
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6 months ago