February 22, 2015
Day 20: Midway to Trail Lakes Campground (Ochopee)
We took some photos of the ultimately empty campsites and of the vast available other spaces here. But what to do with it? We could agitate for the Big Cypress Preserve to have a rational policy toward late arriving hiker/bikers, as do the State parks. It's possible, but goes against the car is King culture of this country. While we are at it, though, we could address the sign here that dictated that all food must be locked in a vehicle. So officially according to the regulations we should be starving here, assuming they were so gracious as to give us a place to pitch our tent.
The other approach would be to address the behaviour of the camp "host". But how do you apply for someone to learn how to be a human being, how to show a little compassion, innovation, and imagination? Since he had a real "southern cracker" accent, we automatically assume he is a church goer. So maybe we should address some parting suggestions to him that next time in church he could take the opportunity to review the principles of charity and compassion.
Does all that sound like we are pretty crabby?
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We arranged our new friends Frank and Jackie and poodle Sophie for a farewell photo, and wished them well in finding all sorts of pythons.
We retook the road, and were plunged immediately back into the world of birds and gators by the roadside. Just a short distance away was the Big Cypress Visitor Centre. We popped in there, and filled out some comment forms. We have two that voice complaints - over no tent space at Long Pine and Midway - and one bouquet - for excellent ranger volunteer Brian at Royal Palms. We requested a response for each, so we will see what happens.
There is no cell service here, from any provider, so once again I feel like I am writing this to myself. But maybe we will find a connection later in the day. I got what I think is a great shot of a woodpecker that I am eager to post.
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There was a kingfisher too, but I missed him. Another missed shot came yesterday, with a large grey, black, and tan squirrel. Any small mammal is rare here, and this was the only squirrel we had seen. He climbed a bush near me, and for a moment I thought he wanted to jump on me. But in fact he wanted to cross the road. He made a run for it, and I closed my eyes - with the heavy traffic I thought he was a goner. But somehow he skittered through and crashed into the brush on the other side. Having evaded the cyclists and cars, now he only needs to watch out for pythons!
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The day turned hot and humid, and we could see that the gators were warming up. Rather than just lie there, quite a few launched themselves violently into the water when we passed by. The turtles were the worst for this - they easily heard us coming. They are sort of the dogs of the swamp world.
We entered an area where the speed limit is reduced and drivers are cautioned to watch out for panthers. There are lasers along the roadside which light flashing "Wildlife in the Roadway" signs when tripped. None of this seemed to make any difference to the drivers. However when we arrived at our campsite, Trail Lakes Campground, they were taking it seriously, at least to the extent of having a giant panther statue out front. There were also panther tracks in the concrete at the front entrance, so this is no kidding!
Actually, they may not be as serious as all that, since inside they were also selling tee shirts and stuff from the Skunk Ape, that apparently also lives around here!
Our first greeting here was from a representation of that ape, but we found this less hostile than some of the National Park staff - this being a private operation. Inside was also a fairly ferocious gater greeter, but the young man behind the counter was very nice.
We got led to a spot beside the washroom, just as we had asked. The washroom had all the luxuries - liquid soap in its own bottle (good for shower and washing clothes), available electric plugs, hot water, wow! Beside our spot was the camp of a young couple, with a three year old riding a nice bike with training wheels. All around were scattered sea kayaks. The couple and grandma lead kayak adventures, and were expecting a gaggle of college kids anytime, for a trip to start tomorrow. Perhaps they will be noisy, but we are hoping they are also fun.
Meanwhile it has started to pour, and we are here, typing this, in the laundry room!
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Ok the rain stopped, and we went up to the campground entrance, where they have a small shop and also a roadside menagerie.
The managerie was pretty messy, but the reptiles and birds did seem reasonably well cared for. The owner was there, and demonstrated how the cockatoo will take a cashew from his mouth. This cockatoo bites, and will only do this with the owner.
Other colourful birds and plants madmem this a pleasant foray. Really fascinating, though, was a giant python. It was as thick around as a fit cyclist's thigh. When we had parted from Frank and Jackie, they left us with some final tips about how to defend against a python. This mostly involved knifing it in the back of the head. But knife or not, this thing looked really deadly.
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Today's ride: 31 km (19 miles)
Total: 936 km (581 miles)
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