Day 31: To Cokeville

August 31, 2013

Today I continue traveling south along state lines.

On the road at 8:40. Blue sky, temperature in the 50's. Through Afton, upstream along the tiny Salt river. The first 14 miles gently climb 700 feet. Then the road quickly climbs another 700 feet to 7630 foot Salt River pass. Highest point of the tour. No clouds even at this high elevation.

Looking back during the climb to Salt River pass.

At Salt River pass I cross from the Pacific watershed into the Great Basin watershed. Now water flows downhill to the Great Salt Lake, where it evaporates.

Crossing from the Pacific Ocean watershed to the Great Basin. Highest elevation of the tour.

After taking pictures at the summit I began a long descent to the next valley.

The descent follows a tiny creek called Thomas Fork river. The temperature steadily warmed to 85F.

This creek flows towards the Great Salt Lake, where the water evaporates.

At the bottom I stopped for lunch at the Canyon Inn. Bar, restaurant, cabins. Nothing else. One guy runs the store and bar. The restaurant was closed, but the bar made a pizza for me. The bar has dozens of bullet holes in the walls and ceiling.

The only services on today's route. The bar has *many* bullet holes on the walls and ceiling.

Also at the bottom of the descent I turned off busy US 89 onto Wyoming highway 89 which has much less traffic. Finally a truly tranquil road.

But a few miles further south my quiet highway connects with US 30 and is somewhat busier for the last few miles to Cokeville. I'm going upstream along the Bear river, but most of the traffic turned downstream on US 30 towards a populated farm valley in Utah.

Most of the day was in Wyoming but I crossed into Idaho for a few miles during the afternoon.

Back into Idaho for a few miles. My route straddles state lines for several days.

Southeast Idaho is far from the famously racist northernmost part of Idaho.

The last few miles to Cokeville are in a high and bleak landscape. The climate is getting steadily more arid as I go south. Shade is quite difficult to find now. The few trees are all behind fences.

Wide open spaces. No shade or shelter from the wind.

Irrigation is less common now. Most of the farms are "dry" farms that rely on rainfall. The growing season is short because of the high elevation. So farmers can only grow low-value crops such as hay.

I had a tailwind for the last few miles to Cokeville. I can't remember the last time I had a tailwind. Probably near Missoula.

Very wide and smooth concrete road in the middle of nowhere. Pork barrel government spending.

I rolled into Cokeville (elevation 6194 feet) at 4 PM. It's an extremely depressed town, population 535 and shrinking. Most of downtown is boarded up. I got a $48 room at the Hideout Motel which is pretty nice. Dinner across the street in the cafe. The truck stop convenience store doesn't sell beer, but the cafe has a "beer barn" in the back which sells only Budweiser products.

Grocery store in the very depressed town of Cokeville, Wyoming.

Today had few clouds and good visibility. Minimal headwind, and even some tailwind. So it wasn't a particularly difficult day. It was a relief to have no headwind and no concern about thunderstorms. And it's nice to have very light traffic. I'm in the middle of nowhere.

Distance: 56.5 miles (90 km)
Climbing: 1915 feet (580 m)
Average Speed: 11.5 mph (18.4 km/h)

Today's ride: 57 miles (92 km)
Total: 1,548 miles (2,491 km)

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