We finally got all of the logistics worked out to get the dog looked after, a ride to the trailhead and a ride back from Fernie at the end. To make things even better, the wet weather over the last week has provided some much needed moisture, putting a dent in the regional wildfires and smoke, and the weather forecast looks good with clear skies and daytime temperatures in the low 20's.
Truck was loaded and we were off to the trailhead just after 7 am. It's about a one hour drive to Kananaskis Lakes / Elk Pass from Canmore and the weather was overcast, but dry and cool. Thanks for driving us down to the start Brian!
As with most hiking and biking trails around here, you start by going up, no nice easing into it! The trail had a couple of short steep sections that required some pushing but was generally a nice wide single track with ~200 m of elevation gain over 5 km's to the summit of Elk pass. This is also the continental divide and the border between BC and Alberta.
Once into BC the trail changed from a single track through a provincial park to a logging road through clearcuts! Welcome to eastern BC where logging and coal are kings!
On the plus side, the trail / road was in pretty good condition and it was net downhill for the rest of the day. The terrain continually changed from high alpine / rugged mountains at Elk pass / Elk Lake to a broad forested valley as we headed south towards Elkford.
Our 'wildlife' encounters were limited to a pack of horses grazing along the road and a few piles of very fresh bear scat (looks like high veg diet!).
Even though it was a Friday and the road can be easily driven, we only encountered seven vehicles in total (folks going fishing / hiking / camping) and one other cyclist.
Just south of Tobermorry camp / cabin we saw this lone cyclist heading our way. We stopped for a chat and it turns out it was Peter Farran who we've done a few back country ski trips with but haven't seen in over a decade! Small world! he was nearing the end of a 10 day off-the-grid trip from Abbotsford (Fraser valley east of Vancouver) back home to Calgary.
After this encounter we were back on our own. Our original plan for today was to camp at Blue Lake, but we arrived there at about 2:30 pm and decided to press on to Elkford, another 25 km's down the trail.
This turned out to be a good decision. There was a very nice municipal campground in Elkford with a walk in section for bikers. There were showers, bear lockers and a good size cook shelter, which we needed as a pretty good shower came through just as we were going to start cooking.
The one downside of the campground though was that it was right beside the main road / highway. Elkford is a coal mining town. For the last 20 km's into town we were riding alongside the Fording coal mine (a huge open pit mine, one of 5 in the Elk valley). The fine folks who operate the massive machinery at these mines also appear to take their work home, as Elkford seemed to be dominated by large jacked-up pickup trucks without muffles, being driven up and down the highway (i.e right bedside the campground!). These trucks were accompanied by random shotgun blasts coming from a nearby field. Welcome to eastern BC! We're a long way from Kitslano! All of this quieted down by 10 ish and we had a great nights sleep. It was nice to be back in the tent even if it was in a town campsite.
The overall impression of the day for both K and me was that it was a good ride, not great, not bad. The scenery was nice, but not as dramatic as what we know exists nearby off the road and in the higher alpine. Once in BC the day was dominated by logging cut blocks and the last part of ride by the huge Fording Coal mine at Elkford.
We will have a shorter day into Sparwood tomorrow since we added on to today's plan. We've booked and pre-paid a hotel there and there's not much past Sparwood until we get into the Flathead Valley. Tomorrow will be a bit of a repeat of today (logging and coal mines) but there is some single track marked on the route.
SOTD - Spirits by The Strumbellas. The combo of loud truck exhaust interspersed with what sounded like random shotgun blasts from the field beside the campground just put this in my head.
At the Elk Pass trail head - 11 days later! Slightly overcast but dry and crisp clean air. Thanks for driving us down here Brian.
The first 6 km's were in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park (Alberta) and were mostly old fire / logging roads that were reverting to single track interspersed with newly built single track
First sign of bears. A pretty regular occurance to see scat, but actually seeing bears is rare. This was pretty fresh and indicative of lots of vegetation. Probably skunk cabbage as there is lots of it around now and bears are one of the few animals that will eat it.
One a a few cabins along the way. Very popular with the Great Divide Riders from what we've heard and read. basic but in nice shape and it would be a very nice refuge during inclement weather (like last week when it snowed!)
And our one and only cyclist for the day! Turns out we know each other. Peter Farran, from Calgary. We've skied together on a number of back country trips but haven't seen each other in about a decade. Peter is nearing the end of a 10 day trip from Abbotsford back home to Calgary / Bragg Creek
North of Elkford. The ridge line on the right is the continental divide and the BC/Alberta border. The last day of our 3 day Highwood loop trip we did in June (written up here on CB) was on the other side of this ridge.
Snarve 1.1, when I first made these I thought they might need a vertical strap to fully secure the bags. Did I experiment and / or do anything in the 10 day weather delay we had? Not a chance. Real life testing determined that they were needed so a field modification took place at the campsite in Elkford. At least I brought along spare straps!
