June 1, 2018
20. Ione to Pioneer Park Campground Near Newport: Roughing It in the Rain
Morning opened as the night had progressed, with rain and temps in the low 40s. We’re pleased to note, our tent is completely waterproof. ☔️ We appropriated the warm and dry campground laundry room to get organized for the day, though we had to roll up a wet tent and ground cloth. With our little primus stove in the lee of the building, we feasted on instant oatmeal, yogurt, and granola.
Suited up in our raingear, we headed out to follow the Pend Oreille River upstream. The rain varied and traffic was light except for some local deliveries of gravel which we moved beyond after 15 miles or so. The cloud streams wreathing the mountains in a light gray made a wonderful contrast to the dark green forest.
After the mountain passes of recent days, the undulating road was pleasant. Just enough ups to keep us warm. Not so long of downs to chill us.
The historical connection of the area with our Flathead Valley was evident from the Kalispel Indian Reservation that we passed through. The Salish-Kootenai had long ranged over the mountains of eastern Washington, the Idaho panhandle and western Montana. (And yes, the tribe here spells its name with just one ‘l.’)
We rolled into the Pioneer Park USFS campground in time for the festivities of the mozzie welcoming committee. Little pests were living life large with all the flooded river bottom. We lit our first campfie of the trip which disouraged them but made us smell like we had been hung in the smokehouse. We both were wearing long bike tights but the mosquitoes stung us through the cloth. Tough buggers.
The day ended clear, which portended a cold night. We were not disappointed. We had brought our clothes into the tent so we could get dressed in relative warmth in the morning. But as the temperature fell, we put on our long sleeve shirts, bike tights, and finally socks. When Scott woke up, he was flat against the side of the tent, with Jackie snuggled up close in her sleeping bag with 6 inches to spare on her side. Mammals keeping warm.
The campground was decent, paved road to the sites, and a lot of downed tree branches guests can use for campfires without having to pay $6 for firewood. A tent site was $15 - a bargain. Our campground host was a pony-tailed gent in his late 70s. He pointed out the hosting opportunities for ‘young folks’ like us. But that sounds mysteriously like work. Maybe later, when are no longer young...and can't ride our bicycles 🚲 from glorious sunrises ,🌄 to beautiful sunsets 🌅.
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Today's ride: 50 miles (80 km)
Total: 656 miles (1,056 km)
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