April 24, 2016
That Phanom to Mukdahan
We had breakfast at Baan Ing Oon Guesthouse - it was included in the price but the communication gap ensured that I only found that out when I tried to pay for it. It seems to be family run, friendly and helpful despite us taking a while to understand what they say to us. They are developing the similar Indochinese house next door as an annex to this existing guest house.
Leigh was keen to have one last look at the chedi at Wat Pra That Phanom before we left. While I was taking a photo of her, a group of local cyclists arrived and so a quick stop became 10 minutes of broken chatter and group photographs. The friendliness of the Thais in the Isaan has made this trip down the Mekhong an absolute pleasure.
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After that we set off into the fresh headwind that would dog us all the way to Mukdahan. When we chose to ride down the Mekhong we already knew that the prevailing winds would be from the south, and so they have been, but today was the first time we have had to consciously work hard into the wind.
The 4004, a mostly cement road, through the villages along the river was mostly in good condition but in one village it was being completely replaced. One half of the road was rutted dirt, the other was partially laid with new cement. In true Thai fashion, the Sunday market had taken over the new cement strip, right next a section that must have been laid minutes before we got there (it was still wet and the workers were busy with it). And this wasn't just the normal food, clothes and trinkets. It even had a white goods section with stoves, fridges and washing machines for sale. I was half expecting to see a new Hyundai dealership on the cement slab next to it.
We did a bit of birding along the way and stopped off at a lovely little beach just north of the second Friendship bridge. At the bridge itself we had a long stop for a big second breakfast (no lunch needed today) before slogging on to Mukdahan itself. We checked into the Samran Chay Khong hotel on the south end of town on Samran Chay Khong Fang Tai Alley, the main road on the riverside. It is new and sparkling clean with a lovely large room and at 590 baht a bit more than we would normally pay but still excellent value for money.
Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,902 km (1,181 miles)
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