April 17, 2016
Nong Khai to Phon Phisai
A very easy and most enjoyable morning's cycling mostly along the minor roads between the 212 and the Mekhong.
We got away at 6 am and ambled slowly down Mi Chai Road which eased its way out of Nong Khai and into the countryside. By the time we reached Phon Phisai soon after 9 am we had been reminded in no uncertain terms of one of the things we had been missing in Laos - BIRDS !
It had been apparant from the moment we had cycled over the Friendship Bridge yesterday. Suddenly there was birdsong in the air once again. All the common birds that are always evident in Thailand - Coucals, Koels, Drongos, Magpie-Robins - were to be seen again. These are all "trash birds" in birding terms but they were conspicuous by their absence in Laos.
We wandered slowly along the flat roads stopping frequently to simply enjoy the birds, making use of the cement strips and dirt roads leading down to the Mekhong. We even picked a lifer in Plain-backed Sparrow and had fantastic views of two Black Bazas, which we hadn't seen since Cambodia 4 years ago.
We had bought some bananas on the way so we waited until we were in Phon Phisai which we entered over the old bridge, quickly finding a lovely plastic-chair place where we scoffed some battered chicken on rice.
We managed to parambulate what seemed like the entire town before we found the Boontawee Hotel which seems like the default place to stay in Phon Phisai, and rightfully so because 450 baht buys one a large spotlessly clean room and a safe place to park a bicycle. It can be found on the eastern side of the old main road through town (ie. NOT the 212) so if you enter from the south use the old bridge and carry straight on (it will be on your right) and if you enter from the north you should turn right onto the road that goes into town at an angle from the 212 (you'll find the Boontawee on your left). The map below shows its location.
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With the afternoons still being a no-go zone, we spent chilled in the comfortable room at Boontawee with the occasional cup of coffee brewed on the beer can stove. In the evening we had drinks on the riverfront before queuing up at the local Pad Thai Hero's stall.
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 1,478 km (918 miles)
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