We had intended to ride to Khong Chiam today but were always hoping to find accommodation near the Pha Taem National Park where we could do some birdwatching.

With the prospect of 83 kms and two big hills, we were up at 4:30 am and on the road by 5:20 am. By the time we reached the village of Ban Song Khon, two kilometers up from the resort, it was already full of life as a market was taking control of the route 2112.

We had stocked up with sweets and biscuits in Khemmarat as insurance in case we couldn't find food along a route about which we could not get much information. As it turned out, there were villages nicely spread out along the way where we bought cooldrinks every so often and some sweet toasted bread for first breakfast Cooked food was not available until we reached Pha Taem.

The two hills we had worried about were nothing special and the first one was negociated while it was still quite cool. The road was mostly in excellent condition and very quiet and we had a lovely ride. It warmed up as the morning went on and our friend the headwind kept us company after about 35 kms but not so much as to be a problem.

While sitting on the steps outside a general store in Ban Nam Thaeng enjoying an ice cold coke, the owner came out and said "You guys are a long way from home" and pointing at our flag said "I see you're from South Africa". When I replied that I was surprised that he knew our flag because most SE Asians have no clue as to South Africa's existence let alone where it is, he said he follows rugby, a game he hasn't played since he finished his studies. A Thai that plays rugby ? Well, he wasn't Thai. He was a Malaysian who had studied in Illinois in the USA and Brighton in the UK and had retired to Thailand with his Thai wife where they setup a small shop in Ban Nam Thaeng to keep themselves occupied. Unfortunately, after 7 years, the small shop is now a big shop and he is no longer "retired". Rugby in Illinois ?.

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After the village of Ban Nam Thaeng we started looking out for a place to stay that might afford easier access to Pha Taem than staying Khong Chiam would. We were about to give up and carry on to Khong Chiam which was only 17 kms away when we reached the turnoff to the National Park HQ and saw a number of signs pointing out accomodation. So we turned off and after a few kms found the Tourist Advice Centre. The lady working there couldn't speak English but we made the right hand signs and she pointed across the road to what looked a bit like a 24 hour love motel. Maybe our hand signals weren't that good. We strolled across to check it out but decided to look for something that had a bit more than simply addressing a basic need. There were signs pointing out resorts towards the Mekhong River but this would have meant a stiff climb out to get back to the National Park and would have created logistical issues with our luggage. So we turned back halfway down the hill. Towards the National Park there was a lovely clutch of teak chalets but with only a cleaning lady in attendance and voicemail on the provided cellphone number we ran the risk of doing another Chanuman. So we stopped at the restuarant next door to the teak chalets (obviously focussed on bus tourists to the National Park - lots of seating and more toilets than is usual for SE Asia) and had some lunch to see if anything might happen with the teak chalets.

Eventually we ended up back at the love nest opposite the Tourist Advice Centre. I was going to withdraw the comment "love nest" because it is actually called Patham Resort and seems to be a well run family business with a restuarant (great mu krop for supper) and a general store across the road. However, during supper more clients arrived that certainly seemed to be the type looking for a love motel. On that note, one of the 24 hour places we passed yesterday described itself as a "romantic homestay".