Similar to a few days ago, when I went out to the common kitchen area just before 8 am there was a plate of still-warm croissants and Portuguese buns with which to make a sandwich with the meats and cheeses from the fridge. It was more than I could eat so I packaged up one sandwich for the road and was on my way before 830 am.
An aromatic, bird-chirping climbing start to the morning under beautiful blue skies. -- Trevões, Portugal
My initial route was a direct 16 km with only one small climb. Feeling that option to be 'for babies', like yesterday, I decided to extend it to the 'scenic route'. As soon as the GPS line directed me away from the main road, the route became cobbled, narrow and extremely steep - downwards. It was so steep that I wondered if my brake pads had enough left in them to get me through all of this scenery!
At the bottom of the hill, the road immediately swung up and through yet another really picturesque hilltop village where the gathering men at the cafes stopped their chatting to watch me climb up and out of the centre. The climbing continued in earnest and finally levelled off as I went over the mountain pass, but then, oh man, did it turn down steeply. I have only rarely seen roads this steep. My hands were getting cramped while I was squeezing the brake levers so much. Had I not, I would have immediately picked up enough speed to be unable to make the next curve and things would not have been good.
I wasn't sure if I should go straight to my destination or wander a bit. -- Trevões, Portugal
Whatever my decision, I started out slowly until my muscles got warmed up. I was coat-off warmed up within the first few minutes so stopped at these gates of paradise to remove the coat. -- Trevões, Portugal
Every way I cycled, every direction I looked, there were rolling mountains everywhere, once again covered with groves of olives, cherries, almonds, and sometimes chestnuts. -- Trevões, Portugal
So I decided on option 2 which was to extend the day's route by descending into one valley, crossing to the other side and climbing up the other side. Way easier said than done. There was some serious cycling required both in the hairy descents and the brutal climbs. -- Near Pinhão, Portugal
You see, my scenic route had me descend from one ridge along a mountain down into the adjacent valley before climbing the other side to the other main road. There was a lot of work for having chosen all of this scenery.
Eventually I did make it to the next main road, the N222, and it led me more gently downward toward the Douro River. Being only a few kilometres from the pretty town of Pinhão, I turned right and followed the river before crossing the iron bridge into town. Wanting a wee break after the hill-climbing spree I went to a little cafe for a capp and a chocolate croissant to refuel my legs for the final climb.
I survived the valley struggle and climbed back to the N222 road which from this point to the river was a nice long descent that snaked through the terraced hills. -- Near Pinhão, Portugal
This bridge covers a minor tributary that feeds the Douro which is on the other side of the bridge. Turning left would eventually lead to Regua and Porto, to the right leads to Pinhão. Though I tend to be more left than right, at this moment I voted right. -- Near Pinhão, Portugal
The iron bridge crossing the Douro into Pinhão is a beauty. This boat is the type formerly used to carry the barrels of port from the quintas downriver to Porto. -- Pinhão, Portugal
You can see many of the scenes depicted in the azulejos aong the perimeter of the station. They are based on the grape-growing and wine-making history of the area. -- Pinhão, Portugal
Along today's route I saw evidence of a road race. Earlier there was a food and water stop being set up. Here where the N222 meets the Douro they were descending the mountains to follow the river. Cars were allowed to go, but I made sure to pull to the side whenever I could see racers approaching from behind. -- N222 along the Douro, Portugal
After climbing and descending a lot, I had to re-climb another 400 m that I had already given away. By now the sun was hot and I was getting tired. Some walking was involved. -- Near Valença do Douro, Portugal
After a lot of hot walking and cycling, here was the sign to town and my casa but there was still quite a bit of climbing to do to get there. -- Valença do Douro, Portugal
I slowly meandered back along the river and when I got back to that junction, there were some GNR (police) there guiding traffic for the bicycle race that was coming through. Once the first group went through they allowed cars and me to go, but I made sure to pull over whenever cyclists were approaching me. I did not want to interfere or be a distraction.
Only a few km more was my turn to the road to my casa... with another climb, this time of 400 m. By now it was hot out, I was tired so I cycled some and walked some and panted a lot until I finally came to the town and then to the casa.
As soon as I arrived a woman came out to offer me food and water and a shady place to rest before showing me to my room. In the short time I've been here already, I have met a couple from Austria (Innsbruck), a couple from France, a fellow formerly from the US now living in Spain, and another couple from I'm-not-sure-where.
Now I am just resting and relaxing in the shade of my room until the dinner starts.
Finally to my casa, the owner fussed over me, offering water, sandwiches, cake, fruit and a shady spot in which to enjoy it. -- Valença do Douro, Portugal
What a dinner. Its started out with guests gathering in the 'cave' which is their bar area with stone walls. I had a wee bit of wine then started to meet more of the guests - I had already met a couple from Innsbruck, Austria, and a fellow from Seattle now living in Valencia, but there was a couple from Vancouver Island, a guy from Walkerton whose spouse is the CEO of the Downie and Wenjack Fund, a couple from Corsica and a couple from Brazil. Dinner was fish with beans then a very fancy dessert. Everything was tip top and there was a lot of it. At this communal meal everyone enjoyed everyone's company.
Following dinner everyone moved to the bar again but I did not stay too long as I was getting tired. I had a tough day of relaxing coming up tomorrow.
Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles) Total: 425 km (264 miles)
