Down to breakfast a few minutes before 8 am where I found about a dozen people already there though I'd been told it opened at 8 am. No biggie, I got a few things, again including a deliciously sweet Portuguese orange.
I packed up and carried my bike down and was rolling by 8:15 am once my GPS told me to head up and alongside the castle where I'd been yesterday. This was followed by a really long and steep descent to the valley before, across a little stone bridge, and then the really steep and long climb up the other side. No shame here in that I had to dismount the bike in a few spots when it got just to steep for my comfort - I'm worried about hurting myself or tiring out within the first fifteen minutes of a several hour day!
I was heading south towards the Douro and near the Sabor railway but not on it very much today as most of its route in this area is overgrown and has not been converted to a greenway - hopefully one day because it is beautiful around here.
Roberto S (FB friend) had suggested heading south to parallel the Sabor and this sounded like a good idea and it really was. The terrain changed a lot from some scrubby and rocky terrain to increasingly more terraces of olive, cherry and almond groves. In a few spots there were blackened dead tree hulks, so evidence of some of the forest fires they get every summer, but to this point I have not seen any eucalyptus.
I came around a corner and could hear some baaaaaad news, and saw that I had some friends coming my way. The dogs made sure they kept on task and that I kept away. -- Between Mogadouro and Castelo Branco, Portugal
Palácio dos Pimentéis / Solar dos Pimentéis - "This 18th century construction presents on its first floor, elegant windows with granite mitres. In the façade centre there is the Coat of Arms. It is worthy to mention two high pinnacles, also in granite rising from the façade extreme." -- Castelo Branco, Portugal
But if there were no orchards, there were hills of this bushy vegetation that grew everywhere and had bright yellow flowers that... just made me smile because of their yellow-ness. -- Between Castelo Branco and Lagoaça, Portugal
Between Castelo Branco and Lagoaça around the corner coming the opposite way was a fully loaded cyclist. He waved and called out a hello then rolled over toward me for a chat. A very friendly cycletourist, he is Swiss and is making his way to Barcelona. He said how he had taken the train along the Douro when I suddenly remembered that a friend of a friend had just yesterday mentioned a Swiss cyclist who had been on his train (he is the engineer) and was ultimately heading to Barcelona, and the engineer had posted a photo of the cyclist's bike - and this was the cyclist! Small world, or what? We compared past tours, homes and dream locations to cycle, and then we went our separate (and opposite) ways.
At Lagoaça I noticed the old Sabor train station so stopped for a few photos and also stopped for a capp and to rest my sit muscles again. Not as tired as they were yesterday, but a rest was needed.
Today I wasn't able to completely cycle the Linha do Sabor as it was mostly overgrown for this section. However, some of the towns the railway used to visit still had the attractive little stations still standing, perhaps for the day that their railway returns. -- Lagoaça, Portugal
Today I wasn't able to completely cycle the Linha do Sabor as it was mostly overgrown for this section. However, some of the towns the railway used to visit still had the attractive little stations still standing, perhaps for the day that their railway returns. -- Lagoaça, Portugal
At Fornos I noticed a little chapel way up on a hilltop and noticed a gravel road that likely led to the top. It was a steep push to the top but the views all around were awesome including way south across the Douro (hidden by the valley cliffs) and into Spain to the southwest. I tip-toe-cycled back down and got back onto the road which ran pretty well parallel to the overgrown Sabor at this point.
... and when I turned around to look down the hill... -- Fornos, Portugal
... there was the little town and further south one could see where the Douro cut its way through the mountains, though the river was too far down to see from here. -- Fornos, Portugal
Just before town the Linha do Sabor again became an Ecopista/greenway. It took me into town and tomorrow eill be my route for the whole time cycling. -- Carviçais, Portugal
Then just before my destination the Ecopista/greenway resumed as a rideable route so I got onto it, took a few more pics then arrived to my destination town for the evening. The Sabor will continue tomorrow to its starting point of Pocinho which is close to tomorrow's stop point.
Just before town the Linha do Sabor again became an Ecopista/greenway. It took me into town and tomorrow eill be my route for the whole time cycling. -- Carviçais, Portugal
Just before town the Linha do Sabor again became an Ecopista/greenway. It took me into town and tomorrow will be my route for the whole time cycling. -- Carviçais, Portugal
Though I was almost to my stop I was getting thirsty after a lot of climbing and strong winds once again. I pulled over at a rest stop with benches where I mixed up some more electrolyte drink, but also looked south toward the Douro and the moutains and planted terraces in between. -- Carviçais, Portugal
The tiny Plaza Mayor is so darned pretty but I think most of the buildings are now abandoned. After the railway closed some thirty years ago the village has gone from about 1 500 residents to about 300 now. Quite sad. -- Carviçais, Portugal
Unless people come along to promote the village as a peaceful retreat and rebuild some of the old buildings, like the one I am in. -- Carviçais, Portugal
On the way into this sleepy village I could see there were almost no places to eat or buy food. One restaurant was closed and the other was packed (Artur). I came to my accommodations but there was nobody around so I returned to the restaurant hoping for a table to become available, but while I sat there I got a message from my casa that someone would be there in five minutes to open up. I hopped onto the bike and rode the 2 km back and checked into this cute little place. It certainly is more ship-shape than all of the other buildings around it which mostly seem abandoned.
I walked back to the restaurant where I had the prato do dia of various pork pieces, sausage, rice, beans and cabbage - apparently a very typical food for this area. The server said his mom is one of the cooks here and that this restaurant is known for many miles around for its tasty traditional food so is always really busy at meal time. By the time I returned it had cleared somewhat but I was quite impressed with the food, the server and the place, in general. All for ten Euro. And that included a flan which had chestnut in the topping, which I love.
Thankfully I had walked to the restaurant so it was nice to have to walk back after all of that food. Doing the regular organizing and cleaning up, and now about to head out to explore this tiny village and maybe find some good APs in the oldest sections.
Me and my swirling mists of time in my mind. I went for an evening walk around the almost-deserted streets of town and was amazed by the ages of some of these buildings. I'm sure many are two or three hundred years old and still standing. The colour of the stone is magnificent in the golden setting sun. -- Carviçais, Portugal
In the tiny town square there is one little pub so I stiopped in to have my first sip of Portuguese vinho tinto. Inside the pub there was a section filled with table but they no longer operate the restaurant. The price of the wine was fifty cents, so I left a Euro. -- Carviçais, Portugal
I walked up to one of the highest points in town from where I could overlook most of the village including the church from the previous photo. -- Carviçais, Portugal
Earlier I forgot to mentionn that there are also quite a few fig trees around, but the figs are still green which I think means they will be very bitter as they have not yet ripened.-- I walked up to one of the highest points in town from where I could overlook most of the village including the church from the previous photo. -- Carviçais, Portugal
I walked up to one of the highest points in town from where I could overlook most of the village including the church from the previous photo. -- Carviçais, Portugal
