May 10, 2023: Peso da Régua to Porto by Train

May 10, 2023

Douro from a new vantage point

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House of Artists, € 72 with breakfast

I was lucky that of all of the places to start breakfast early, this was the one, with it opening at 7 am. This gave me plenty of time to eat (though not the greatest feed, it was decent), pack up my bags and roll all the way across the street to the station.

As per my discussion with the 'train driver' there was no problem getting onto the train. I watched for the bicycle symbol on the car then just hauled the bike, bags and all up through the narrow-ish doors and hung it up in what would be its position for the next couple of hours. When the conductor came to collect my ticket there was not even a batting of the eye with the bike. Relief.

The bike was poised to leap onto the train. There is a specific car and space in the car for bikes so I wanted to ensure I was on the train with my bike rather than not quite as the train pulled away. My fears were groundless. -- Peso da Régua, Portugal

Safe in its spot of twelve in total, though I was the only one for the entire trip to Porto. -- Train from Peso da Régua to Porto, Portugal

Another beautiful sunny day made the train trip spectacular as the train initially snaked along the Douro but eventually was through the hilly Portuguese countryside. I was thinking the train might come in from the south side of the city, thus cross the big bridge as it arrived into Portugal, but that was not to be. I'd have to wait for tomorrow for that crossing.

The train snaked along the Douro for a good portion of the trip with beautiful views of the river and terraces or little villages. -- Between Peso da Régua and Porto, Portugal

The train rolled in to Porto Campanha right on time. I reversed the order of events to disembark, used elevators to get me safely to the lobby, then headed out into Porto.

Unlike the São Bento station, Campanha was a few kilometres to my accommodations which was maybe 300 m from São Bento. It was a nice ride often through a huge canopy of green under trees that made a complete tunnel. The temperature difference between open sun road and through these green tunnels was remarkable.

Thogh small, my room was plenty large enough to store my bike. This would comfort me while I wandered the city, knowing my bike was safe. -- Porto, Portugal

What I had not realized was that I had set my GPS to pedestrian routing yesterday rather than cycling and before I realized this I found some of the routing kind of odd including a very long and steep staircase down which I ended up carrying my bike and gear. Not too heavy, but certainly not the norm. I emerged right beside the São Bento station from a vantage point I had never seen. Then something else I had not seen - tonnes of road work being done all around the station so I had to do a few detours, including right past last year's hotel.

Though well before the official check-in point, I figured I'd give it a try just the same. Now routing for a bike I had to turn and twist through the maze of tiny streets between the station and the Ribeira. And then arrived on the narrowest and steepest of streets.

As I was searching for the info that the casa had sent me to enter, along came a young fellow to the door and when I asked if he worked there he did. He looked at my bike and said it was so small there so no room for the bike. I was aghast - and mentioned that I had messaged them saying that I needed a secure indoor location for my bike. No bike, no tour.

I asked about the room which he showed me and said that it was small but if I was ok with having it in the room it was fine by him. That, and he said the room should be ready within the next fifteen or twenty minutes, so I just waited for the room.

The space was plenty roomy enough for the bike. Relief.

Now was the planning for the day. Fellow cycle tourists, Steve and Dodie Miller (Grampies), were in Porto after having just completed their tour of Spain and Portugal and we had planned to get together some time today. They had already had lunch so we decided on early evening at the train station.

I checked online for the little local restaurant where I had eaten last year and saw that they were only open for lunch and until 230 pm. It was time to head right over and get some sustenance.

With all of that construction around the station I got turned around a few times but finally found the front of the station and from there it was a little walk up toward the cathedral and market to the little local restaurant.

Where last year there were only about eight other people there, this time it was jam packed... with locals all having their lunch. Just the kind of place I wanted and why I had returned. The older fellow, who I think is the owner, speaks no english and no french and kind of barks at everyone in there but it does seem to be with some humour.

I ended up order some 'meat' from the menu, with potatoes and a Sumol. The place was so busy it took a while and when he finally brought me the food he apologized, so I think the kitchen might actually have initially forgotten to prepare my meal. No rush, no problem. I ended up with a delicious pork cutlet with an egg on it, fried potatoes, and rice.

I stepped out from my lunch restaurant, looked to my right to this beautiful view of the Cathedral. -- Porto, Portugal

An AP of the Cathedral which has a stupendous view over the city and the river. It can be seen from all over. -- Porto, Portugal

The Bishop's Palce, right beside the Cathedral. Yet another prime real estate spot in the ancient city. -- Porto, Portugal

Now happy and full, I went meandering the streets around the cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, then the tiny, winding and steep back streets which brought me down to the Ribeira along the Douro's edge. What a shocker that was. While there were people around last year, this time there were hordes of people walking along the path, hordes of people sitting at the patios having meals, drinks or coffee. People were coming from everywhere, going everywhere and pouring down to the river from every which way. What a difference.

I love the look of the old tiled rooftops and church steeples and how randomly-spaced they look. -- Porto, Portugal

I remember staying right near here in 2003 and how narrow and steep it was to get my bike to my casa. That day in November it was cold and raining, though. It was neither today. -- Porto, Portugal

So many little nooks and crannies in the twisty little back streets. -- Porto, Portugal

I have cycled along the top, cycled along the bottom, and ridden a train over the top, but the best is just admiring it from the river's edge. -- Porto, Portugal

People, people and more people. And more kept on coming. It was unsettling after years of no crowds for the most part. - Porto, Portugal

Though full, I hadn't yet had... yup, that's right, my Milka. No sooner did it some to mind that the next doorway was a small supermarket right in Praça da Ribeira, or the square right at the water. I enjoyed a little Milka in the shade and just watched the huge crowds in amazement. Again, what a difference.

It was time to get out of the heat of the day and have a wee afternoon nap so I went up and around to my casa. Nobody was around and so I just entered the door codes I had been given to get through the main door and the door to my room. Another place with very limited contact with anyone.

The wine and port is often labelled in this vivid way. Note the price of the 'dangerous' (aka crappy) bottle of Mateus compared to the others. -- Porto, Portugal

Crowds in the square just below São Bento station. Musicians, crowds and nearby construction provided a continuous LOUD din. -- Porto, Portugal

This was graduation (?) week in the country so groups of graduates could be seen dressed up, often in gowns and capes. -- Porto, Portugal

As 6 pm approached I headed out toward the station to meet with the Millers. Construction had me meandering a bit off-track initially but I soon found my way through the throngs to the station. They told me that I would spot them in their bright yellow jackets - and sure enough, when I got into the azulejo-filled station foyer, there they were. If my pannier covers are that vivid, I'm happy.

I have to say that I had a wonderful evening with fellow Canadians, fellow cyclists and fellow CycleBlazers, and fellow Iberia tourers. We compared tours, laughed about little incidents on various tours, and just wandered down to the river on a very circuitous route to and from the station area. It was like we had been friends for years. Dodie and Steve - thank you for an amazing evening!

In bright yellow you can see my new friends, the Millers. Also Canadian. Also cycle tourists. Also on CycleBlaze. Also finishing an Iberian cycle tour. -- Porto, Portugal

As we walked around and toward the water, numerous old buildings dotted the area. -- Porto, Portugal

With the sun lowering and casting a golden hue on the bridge, I couldn't help but take yet another AP (artsy photo). -- Porto, Portugal

Evening sky, lights aglow on São Bento station as my new friends (Millers) in yellow depart for their casa. -- Porto, Portugal

With the sun setting it was getting cool and we all decided, sadly, that it was time to call an end to our time together. Back at the station they went their way and I went mine. Mine was a simple up and around the corner and was back to my casa. Once inside, again nobody around, and not a peep anywhere, so I wondered if I might be the only one here.

I went up to the room to prepare for tomorrow's early departure and pack what things I could. It was around this time that I started to hear the doorbell ring downstairs. Then a short bit later it rang again. This continued for about an hour. I figure someone had made a booking here but had not checked their messages from the casa explaining how to enter the place and were hoping a clerk was somewhere inside to let them in. There was no way I was going to let some stranger into the place so I enjoyed the ringing of the doorbell for about an hour. Eventually I heard the door open so they must have read their messages.

Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 486 km (302 miles)

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