May 1, 2023
May 1, 2023: Zamora to Ricobayo de Alba
Rolling hills through the poppies
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Hostal Atila, € 45 with breakfast
I had been told that breakfast started at 8 am due to its being a holiday Monday but when I got down to the breakfast restaurant a few minutes before 'opening' it was already packed with patrons. There was room in another section which was nice, so I had another breakfast of assorted meats, cheeses, sweets and fruit.
The same helpful desk clerk from yesterday was there to check me out and open the gate to my bike, so I loaded up and rolled away. Back toward the Plaza Mayor, then down to the river's edge as I approached the Roman Bridge in the early morning soft sunlight. And the air smelled fresh and morning-y. Signs of a great day of cycling to come!
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Also, what do you wear for bottoms when going out to eat? We've been told we need to dress 'better' during our upcoming Spain/Portugal trip. Better was defined as a skirt for me and pants for my husband. No flip flops. I'm not sure how much we will be going out to dinner, with the late dining hours there. Most likely we will often have a late lunch. We are wondering about appropriate clothing. It's enough to be an obnoxious American, much less a poorly dressed one.
1 year ago
Unless I am going for tapas at a bar, I put on long pants in a restaurant. I have found that women tend to dress up more than their male companion. That being said, most males wore a collared shirt (I do not) but oftentimes they were wearing denim jeans. None looked overly casual, excepting again, in the bars or bar sections.
I mention the bars because over this busy weekend, the restaurants have been filled with customers with reservations so I have eaten some meals in the bar section of these same restaurants. Still nice, but less formal. Same food.
As for the timing of dinner at 8 pm, I have tried, but it is just too late for me, so I either have a big lunch or eat tapas somewhere.
1 year ago
The bridge was so beautiful that more photos were warranted and then away I went, soon pulling away from the river and heading up and out of the river valley. Not a tough climb, but certainly enough of a workout that I needed to remove my coat though it was only 9 C (soon to be 25 C). I would love to have continued alongside the river, but the roads did not agree with me and simply did not follow the river for the next bunch of distance.
A few times the road did descend down to the river which meant I went from flat plains of cultivated fields to rolling sections of trees fully of singing and twittering birds. Did I already say how great the cycling was this morning? Of course, the descents into the valleys meant a climb out the other side, but it seems that my skiing is helping my legs after all. My sit bones still need some settling in, but I'm getting there!
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Another amazing feature from the outskirts of Zamora and everywhere along my route were the bright red poppies. Sometimes a couple, sometimes a few more, and sometimes a whole field of them where they had not been tilled in a while. They grow wild here like we have dandelions in the summer and snow banks in the winter. The poppies were bright red, cheery and waving in the light breeze. A great morning's ride.
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I used to keep my digital watch strapped to my handlebars so I could keep watch on... well, what else, but the time of day. That watch has gone missing in the last year so to check time I need to check my tablet (I don't bring a phone on tour, since my tablet does all that I need - other than provide a quick means of checking the time) which I just don't bother to do. Moreover, I haven't been obsessing over how far I have gone or have not gone. I only obsess over ensuring that I am on track so I get to where I want to go. All this to say, that when I got to the wee tiny village of Muelas del Pan and noticed a cafe, I had no idea what time it was or how far I had come. I had simply decided it was time for a capp (or some semblance of one).
Once I sat down and checked, I found that it was only 11 am and I had only 3,5 km to go to my hostal. Darn - it was such a great day I could easily have gone on for some hours longer. I relaxed and sat for a while before continuing down into the valley to cross the river and climb the other side into Ricobayo de Alba and immediately to the door of my hostal. This village is tiny, though at least there is something around unlike the surroundings of the castle a couple of days ago.
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My room was not quite ready so I sat in the bar section to read and catch up on news and to see how back home was expecting a deluge of rain. At least it will melt the last of the snow and rinse everything off, I suppose.
After checking in I went back down to the restaurant to have lunch but was told that due to the long weekend, every table was reserved so I would have to sit in the bar section. Not quite as fancy but the same food, so no biggie for me. I ordered churrasco and vino tinto (again?! Remember... 'great day') but that will be it for a while for the wine.
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The worst problem with cycling a bunch then having a heavy meal AND vino tinto is the resulting tiredness I get. Yup, you guessed it. Nap time for most of the afternoon. Mind you, that ensures I am out of the sun for the hottest part of the day and can now go and wander around in the softer light and cooler evening.
Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 148 km (92 miles)
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