Apr 29, 2023: Salamanca to Villanueva de Cañedo

April 29, 2023

Enjoying a Castillo off the beaten track

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Posada Real Castillo del Buen Amor, € 104.81 with breakfast

Unsurprisingly for me, I was up well before I was 'supposed' to wake up. With all the extra time, I packed up my gear then was sure to be downstairs before the other guests arrived in case I had to move my bike through the breakfast room before I disturbed their meal. But no, I was assured that all was well, and I could move it once I had eaten.

Typical of Spanish breakfasts there were oranges, pears, meats, cheeses and sweet breads. I didn't try everything but I sure tried a lot. When I was done I packed my last things and made my way back down to carry the bike back to the ground floor where I clipped on the panniers, flashing tail light and my WORKING gps which I set for my route of the day.

Seeing as I now had guidance for my route, I was able to follow that which had been set up which carried me straight back to the Plaza Mayor where the light was just fabulous - so took many an AP some of which turned out really well.

Now that my GPS was back, I had my proper route which brought me right through the Plaza Mayor. And in the morning light... oh my goodness. -- Salamanca, Spain

And seeing that the light was so good, that the Plaza Mayor was so beautiful, that my GPS was working, and that my route was taking me through here, I just HAD to pull out Pookie for a quick AP. -- Salamanca, Spain

And finally, with the arches receding into the distance, one last AP (artsy photo) before I was on my way following my GPS directions. Hurray! -- Salamanca, Spain

Today would be the first day of sustained cycling so I was a bit nervous how I would be considering my little incident a few weeks back. The fall plus not having been skiing for a while so how physically fit would I be?

With these things considered, I struck out carefully and made sure to gear down on any rise in the terrain. Fortunately, today would prove to be a fairly flat one, and for a good portion of the ride the wind was at my back. Double win.

The terrain wasn't particularly remarkable though it was attractive. Rolling hills of grain broken up by beautiful little villages into which I veered to see rather than zip by on the main road that avoided them. Well worth it.

As I approached my hotel I came to a point where the road became a dirt road. I knew this from checking my mapping site though at one point it started to get a bit soft which worried me - with the weight of the panniers plus me on road tires, they get a bit squirmy in sandy conditions. As I approached the castle, though, the road firmed up then for the last bit was paved.

For the most part, today's route was flat and my only real scenery were towns. Otherwise, there were fields and fields of wheat (?). Nice and green (ie no snow), nice weather but not hugely inspiring. To break up the fields, as I approached a village I would roll of of the main road in order to pass through the tiny village squares and usually past the local church, seemingly long-since shuttered and closed. In this particular village was a murky green and slimey pond where a couple of seasoned fishermen were unsuccessfully attempting to catch something from the murk. -- Negrilla de Palencia

As it was my first on-the-road day I chose the closest accommodations I coud find - in this case a parador. This one was a former castle converted into a hotel. It is quite a bit over my regular budget for accommmodations but the only other choice would have meant a long day, and possibly too much to start. -- Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain

The bridge across the 8 m moat seems a suitable entrance to the castle hotel. The entrance is to the left. -- Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain

Though not pushing that hard, today's distance was short so I was to the hotel around noon. I thought this would work out well as the hotel had messaged saying there was a wedding ceremony to be held in the castle courtyard but it would not affect guests. I'm not sure if it was the reason but I was unable to get into my room for about three hours. This was not a bad thing, though, since guests are permitted to roam the castle to check out the public rooms including a beautiful and cozy library. Having had enough sun, I sat in the library for a couple of hours to read and doze. It was nice.

I had received a message that a wedding would take place in the castle courtyard today and that this would not impact guests' stays. I arrived well before the ceremony, but, alas, my room was not ready. But, guests could wander the castle including this amazing library. After being out in the heat long enough I settled into this room to read my Jeffrey Archer novel. -- Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain

Though most of the books are not really old, the bookcase is. It is hundreds of years old and was hand-carved for the castle-owner of the time. -- Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain

When I finally got my room I was told that it was in one of the oldest parts of the castle dating back to the 12th Century. And it was a beautiful room, with large sandstone block walls, timbered ceilings and an arrow-shooting window to the outside through which I could hear birds twittering in the day and crickets chirping overnight. It was great.

Being in a lower section of the castle (stables? stores?) the walls are several huge stone blocks wide. If there are any invaders tonight I can fire arrows out my window at them. -- Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain

Not too often that I have had a Middle Ages era window to keep safe. Being out in the countryside, having the window open I hear the constant singing of birds and chirping of crickets in the fields. -- Villanueva de Cañedo, Spain

I cleaned up, had my nap and explored some more before heading for dinner in the onsite restaurant where I had an amazing endive and pomegranate salad. It is in another basement section of the old castle with an arched roof - possibly where they kept their wine and/or food when it was an active castle? All topped up I returned to my room and listened to the crickets!

Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 59 km (37 miles)

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