July 1, 2014
Grand Day
I slept eventually. Then was awakened by the crunching of gravel under feet walking pass the tent along the shore sometime in the early hours, just as it was growing light. In the morning as I stand looking out over the lake and breathing in the air of yet another fine day, a big dog come barking, leading a pack of three Spaniels bounding to me, one jumping up on me, slopping cold water from paws down my legs, having been in for a dip, while the big aggressive dog continues barking, moving in towards me and rebounding back; barking. "He won't touch yeah!" a man approaching calls out.
"Are you staying along the road" he asks, meaning a guesthouse. "No. I'm staying here" I reply, pointing along the lakeshore to my tent. "I'm leaving today" I add. I don't mention the locals that chatted and laughed most of the night, when he asks did I sleep well; instead, shrug saying fine. "Ah. Right you are. A fine place to camp" he chuckles. Sixty-something with a full red face, a mix of good living and activity. Seeing that I'm cycling, he asks how far I cycle a day and when I answer about ninety kilometres, recommends I head towards Clifton. Parting he remarks "Grand weather for the bike" calling his dog off me, the Spaniel having made friends with me. "The rain is on the way for tomorrow" then continues, the dogs springing along ahead of him.
I don't want to go to Clifton as I'd been that way on a previous tour ten years ago. I got the impression that it was an extremely touristy place. Moreover, it's a good detour west, leaving a long ride to Galway tomorrow if it rains as the dog walker mentioned; preferring instead to follow a more direct route along lakes draining out into Galway Bay that submerge a wide tract of country. Starting in the north in Mayo, Lough Mask and over a slender hill to the south, Lough Corrib just about cuts County Galway in two halve.
It was a good decision. Once off the twenty kilometre stretch of busy N-road running south from Castlebar, cycling along a quiet minor road which eventually skirts the western shore of Lough Mask for many kilometres. What can I say. It turns out an afternoon riding slowly and stopping often, looking to the side at the sky mirrored in the lake. Those looking see a constant expression of awe on my face. Then in the later afternoon, climbing up and descending the other side to a narrow lake along a deep valley. I continue until eight thirty when I come to a track off across open mountain, marked as a walking trail, where I lift the bike over a low fence at the end and cycle about a few hundred metres in until a suitable level spot for the tent. The only problem with this campsite, is the midgets. I've to retreat inside being unable to fend off their prickly onslaught.
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Today's ride: 93 km (58 miles)
Total: 578 km (359 miles)
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