May 18, 2023 to May 21, 2023
Oberhausen bei Kirn - Cologne (via Koblenz & Bonn)
Stage 18
My accommodation in Bruttig Frankel was right beside the lock and my room looked across the canal to Ellenz- Poltersdorf - very serene and the sort of place that made me wish I was staying longer.
On the way into town the night before when I stopped to check navigation, I'd done the equivalent of putting my phone/wallet on the roof of my car, but with my bug defender glasses. I even heard them hit the road, but didn't realise what the sound was, so kept riding for another 1.5km. By the time I got back there the sunglasses were in 3 pieces, and I think I was right behind the car that ran them over. Surprisingly, they went back together and still work!
My first mission of the day was to get some cash from an ATM. The first 3 machines would not take my card. I hadn't withdrawn cash in Germany and wondered if there was going to be a problem. The fourth machine coughed up the cash, and the sun broke through!
There is a cycle-way on both sides of the Moselle, and I chose the river left. My fist castle sighting was a delight, and I expect there will be more in the next few days.
As the morning progressed the traffic volume increased, particularly large groups of motorcycles. I later found out that it was a public holiday in Germany (Ascension Day), and that explained why so many were out driving and no shops were open.
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In Koblenz there were long queues at ice cream shops as a warm sunny day and a public holiday signaled summer. We explored the streets a little and I couldn't resist a photo of the Schangel Fountain, which is a gothic treat, and a fun statement about the mischief of boys.
Riding the Rhine path was much more relaxing than the Moselle path as it is well away from the road; the only challenges being loose dogs and inexperienced cyclists afraid to share the path. I really enjoyed watching the river traffic and the changing activities on the banks.
Bonn provided another overnight stop, in the Villa district, all leafy and pretty and relaxing. Next morning I had a chance meeting with Conrad and Lee, presently from the Snowy Mountains in Australia, but originally from Kaikoura and Hawkes Bay respectively. Conrad spotted my Ground Effect top - they are world famous in New Zealand! We had a great chat, comparing stories and plans, just a pity we were heading in opposite directions.
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Cologne is a busy city and my hotel was in the thick of the action. After stowing Wally at the bike storage in the railway station I enjoyed a bratwurst and potato combo that is my current fav German dish - lots of fat and onions to make the ultimate fry up!
Saturday night was elbow to elbow in the main square and I abandoned the idea of a rerun of the bratwurst in favour of more supermarket fare.
Sunday morning I went to the start of the Round Cologne bike race. Another UCI ranked event with Pro teams in attendance and mega bucks of lovely bikes to look at. Oh, and a cafe making Flat Whites
Maaike arrived for lunch and we had a great time chatting and planning where our next trips might head to. I think Spain is a strong contender, for both of us.
Stage 18 is now complete, and while my path did not closely resemble the EDT, I enjoyed the canals, getting to and exploring Cologne, and catching up with Maaike.
My total distance - 173km, and I'm not sure where the 440m elevation snuck in, as it was down canal for 2 days.
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1 month ago
Today's ride: 173 km (107 miles)
Total: 3,803 km (2,362 miles)
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