Moia - Perpignan - European Divide Trail

April 25, 2023 to April 29, 2023

Moia - Perpignan

Stage 10

We are going to France this week!

From Moia to Vic was a very nice climb and descent (on the N141c, Calle de Malla, N152a, not the EDT route), and I noticed an increase in the number of road bikers out training, perhaps for the Giro d'Italia (starting 6 May) or Le Tour (starting July).

Castell de Tona, from the very nice N141c, heading into Vic

In Vic my apartment was up two narrow flights of stairs, so after dragging Wally up, I went out to look for a bike shop. I had intended to take Wally, but the stairs... and I'd decided that with the increase in humidity it was time to get some glasses to fend off the bugs.

As I stepped into the street, it started to rain, a bit. How much can it really rain in Spain? I thought. Over an hour, enough to get really really wet, and to make the wetting worse, no bike shop in any of the 4 locations proposed by G-maps!

Our exit from Vic was was through a freshly rinsed spring landscape and on up to Tavernoles for a coffee stop. Outside the cafe two local gents were very concerned that I might leave Wally on the street unsupervised. We settled on a far more secure location 2m inside the courtyard, and they were happy.

As I was departing the chaps asked if I was doing the Camino. I waved in the uphill direction and mentioned reservoir, and got a lot of incomprehensible advice, but also enthusiasm for the views. I showed them my intended path, and after a few minutes of talking but not understanding each other's language they sent me on my way with their approval of the plan - I think!

It was a lovely ride up to the pass with hazy views back toward Vic. When Gerry advised of an impending right turn we pulled into a car park with stunning views of the top end of the Sau Reservoir. In the car park was a rider getting his mtb bike ready so I consulted again on my planned route, and had my second map discussion of the day.

First view of the Sau Reservoir, our companion for most of the day.

Our ride along the side of the reservoir, across the Sau Dam and then on a gravel path to the Sasqueda Dam was the best "path" ride since, well, since before the Prades - Montblanc debacle redefined "path". I'd recommend this easy and beautiful 50km ride if you are in the area.

Sau Dam - which we did cross, before crossing back a short while later, downstream.

Note that it is no longer possible to ride across the Susqueda Dam at the eastern end of the reservoir (as directed by my out of date GPS track), but there is a bridge a few km downstream, river right, that works just as well. A left turn just past the restaurant will take you back to the original GPS track.

I elected to avoid a 6km climb over a mountain that didn't seem to have much merit, and rode the road beside the Rio Ter to reach El Pasterales. It was a gentle, scenic, almost carless, 8 km downhill.

At my rural hotel I met Jeffrey, a Dutchman riding a hand cycle, and he had already explored the Via Verde up to Olot. As I was early for check in and the host was out, I decided to ride to Amer for groceries - Jeffrey advised that the advertised restaurant at the hotel was not operating so I needed to self cater.

I spent a pleasant evening in the very pretty garden making plans for the weekend, which I had discovered is a holiday for Labour Day on Monday.

For my penultimate ride in Spain I as on the Via Verde from Amer to Olot (it starts in Girona) and on to Castellfollit de la Roca. What a beautiful ride, and an awesome location to stop for the night.

This is a small town perched at the top of basalt cliffs that have been worn down by the two rivers that meet below the town. I had a few hours to explore before the afternoon thunder delivered rain.

I will ride roads tomorrow and cross into France. The EDT takes a hiking trail through some remote areas, and while that may mean staggeringly beautiful scenery, it may also mean 10 hours of unrideable hike-a-bike, and I don't have enough information to guess which it is.

My road to France was busy, ran through a few acres of truck parks and major discount Mega stores, and was therefore nothing like earlier parts of the EDT. The old border post at Le Perthus still looks as it did pre-Euro zone minus the border guards. I guess they got new jobs.

Maureilias las Illas is a pretty green village just 14km from the border and a lovely spot for our first night in France. The EDT to Perpignan used cycle trails and small quiet roads, and there were many cycle paths to get us safely into the old city and the end of Stage 10.

Stage 10 on paper: 255km, and 4500m of climbing, but a bit less climbing for me - 242km and 2430m. The ride alongside the A26, and on the N260 N11, and D900 wasn't beautiful but it kept us out of some pretty remote country.

Today's ride: 242 km (150 miles)
Total: 2,177 km (1,352 miles)

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