Gratallops - Montblanc - Moia - European Divide Trail - CycleBlaze

April 19, 2023 to April 20, 2023

Gratallops - Montblanc - Moia

Stage 9

The day started with a long downhill between steeply terraced vineyards, and then got more challenging!

Steeply terraced hillsides near Poboleda
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The first section of "path" was actually a drainage channel,  then it became a very steep and rocky trail. We met two local riders coming down it, so it seems it is an established ride - just not in the direction we were pushing our bikes!

Walking up the downhill track - after leaving the nice road at Torroja del Priorat
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When Gerry showed the profile of the climb, I laughed, and at that point I was about 50 almost vertical meters from the top. It was hard work hefting Wally up over the rocks and trying to stop either of us sliding back down. The other side of the hill was just as scrabbly and took careful speed control to stay upright.

Karolina and I stopped in the next village - Poboleda - for a cold drink, and got into conversation (well, Karolina did) with a local vintner about his product  - his claim being that Priorat produces the best grapes in Spain. Maybe it's true?

The rest of the day was climbing, with some ride-able sections, but a lot of pushing - although nothing as steep as in the morning. We arrived in Prades about 4.30, after a leisurely lunch in Cornudella de Montsant, and the walking made it a slow 30km total for the day.

Celebrating our arrival in Prades
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We settled into our hostel, ticked off the life admin of shower, laundry, shopping for next day's snacks, and then dinner at a restaurant in the square. I slept well, blissfully unaware of how difficult the following day would be.

The next day's trail section, from Prades to Montblanc left us both speechless, and black and blue, and grateful to get out without significant damage.

Before it was unrideable, it was just a rough hiking trail
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The "path" was a hiking trail, very narrow and very rocky. After 2.5 hours of the craziest effort to drag my bike along this path, Karolina (who was a few kms ahead of me) messaged: "I'm glad this nightmare is over" but for me, the downhill was equally traumatic, so it was anther 2 hours before l escaped the labyrinth and arrived at the walls of Montblanc. There is not much more to say except, do not attempt this section of the Trail, or if you do, don't take a bike!

Montblanc's old wall was a welcome sight after 5 hours 40 minutes traveling just 36km
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Early next morning, Wally and I caught a train to Barcelona for the weekend and our first rest days since Sagres. Karolina completed her EDT experience at Montblanc and trained to Taragona to meet her Mum for some Barcelona site-seeing.

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After a busy weekend in Barcelona enjoying the sights and the crowds out for Saint Jordi / George's Day it was back to Montblanc on the train, and return to the eat / sleep / pedal routine of the EDT.

When planning the day's ride I realised that I have lost confidence in any part of the trail that is called a "path" in Komoot, and am not yet ready for another bike carrying fest. Maybe this will change in a few days.

This approach has made the past 2 days easy road rides of 85km to Manresa and 31 km to Moia to complete Stage 9.

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Since Montblanc the scenery has changed from the hot, dry Spain we've been riding through for 4 weeks to a more lush and green landscape with more trees, and small fields of wheat. This is quite a change and to my eye looks more like the scenery on the northern side of the Pyrenees.

The roads continue to be enjoyable to ride, including my few kms on the Autovia, which I hadn't intended to experience, but it seems bikes are allowed and trucks and most cars gave me plenty of extra space even though I was riding in the wide shoulder. 

Crossing the off ramp to stay on the Autovia and then crossing the on ramp to get back to the shoulder can be a bit anxiety inducing, especially when trucks are involved, but they slowed down to allow me time to cross, and I lived.

Stage 9 - 183km and 1802 elevation gain became 245km and 2760m when I opted for roads out of distrust for the "paths" and hike-a-bike fatigue.

Gratallops to Moia - an interesting stage for many reasons!
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Today's ride: 245 km (152 miles)
Total: 1,880 km (1,167 miles)

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