April 7, 2023 to April 9, 2023
Cordoba - Carzorla
Stage 4
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The EDT had brought me into Cordoba from the NW and to the old quarter. This made the exit into wheat fields very quick, perhaps less than 30 minutes.
I met 8 hikers on their camino through Cordoba. I had a great "chat" to an Italian guy who had as much English as I have Italian, and he was able to tell me the trail went up and down a lot. Then Lazlo told me I would soon be very tired of olive trees. Both of them were correct!
I was paused beside the trail, considering if the road I was crossing would be a better option than the vague trail Gerry was showing, when a Citroën van pulled onto the trail, and set off (slowly) in the direction I was headed. I was immediately convinced that this must be a road, rather than a trail as I had perceived it, and followed the van.
Soon after, the wheat give way to olive trees and didn't change for the next 6 hours. There was no shade and the afternoon was very hot. I elected to ride the last 20km on the road into Martos to escape the olives!
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In the two towns I passed through the Easter celebrations were in full swing, and at one point when I went to re-fill my water bottles in a bar, I thought I had wandered into a wedding party. By whatsapp Dorian and I agreed we felt somewhat scruffy and under dressed.
Departure from Martos was on another Via Verde, this one very busy with locals walking, running or cycling.
I hadn't been able to find any accommodation or camping in either Jimena or Jodar so opted for a rural hostal in Bedmar, just slightly off the trail. I'd been wanting to book one of these Tourist or Rural places, but their websites were only in Spanish, so it's been hard to identify details, until... Google Translate to the rescue!
I expect to have to pay back the downhill it took to get here, but it is beautiful and serene, and if feels like I'm on holiday - oh, hang on, I am on holiday!
The climb back to Bedmar was not so bad, and my route to Jodar was on road. I met several groups of happy road cyclists on their Sunday ride - I say happy because they waved and "hola"-ed back to me.
After Jodar it was back into the olives except for a brief and lovely downhill on road. Cazorla was slow to appear, but when it did, it looked a lot like a monochrome Queenstown, without the lake. So the only real resemblance to Queenstown is the towering mountains behind the town, and its a tourist hot spot with quite a few adventure activities on offer.
The trail in to town, after the olives ended, was down a very steep concrete track, and I was very pleased I wasn't pushing Wally up it!
After a water stop and a photo op outside the crazy bicycle house, it was on-on for another 5 km and our lodging for the night.
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I've been reflecting on how the tour is unfolding and I feel comfortably settled into a 70 - 100 km ride routine, less concerned about food supply, and happy to plan just 1 day ahead for accommodation. I almost trust the trail to get through, but it is still hard to guess how slow or fast or hard a day will be because of the variety of track / trail / road surfaces.
The trail is certainly taking me to places I wouldn't find on my own and just as the NZ rides took us to places we didn't know about, I feel that I'm getting to see a lot of rural life in Spain. Olives are a big part of their rural economy, I get that now!
That completes Stage 4: 219 km and 3530m climbing planned - 230km and 3740m actual.
Today's ride: 230 km (143 miles)
Total: 868 km (539 miles)
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