Cape St Vincent - Mertola - European Divide Trail

March 30, 2023 to April 1, 2023

Cape St Vincent - Mertola

Stage 1

Wally in early morning contemplative mood, with all original equipment restored, and ready to roll out of Sagres

Cape St Vincent is on both European Divide Trail and EuroVelo 1

The excitement of starting the actual EDT had me up and packed by 0700 on Thursday. Cape St Vincent was a deserted location, like most places at that time of day, so obligatory photos done, we STARTED!

Wally faints at the first wind turbine, but over time, came to appreciate both wind and solar generation fields

First stop Vila de Bospo for coffee and eye drops to ease the niggle caused by an insect hit, and then onto the trail to stack up some kms.

After a "wrong" turn and a wade through a thigh deep pond, twice, I opted for some road. Gerry Garmin is very helpful at rerouting, and that became the theme of the day.

The trail ran through acres of eucalyptus forest before climbing and crossing a highway. At that point I stopped for lunch and to refill water at a roadside store. Lack of water could easily become a problem when it's unclear what the next few hours will be like, so I resolved to not leave a town without a top up.

Day 1 and we are impressed with the quality of the "forestry" roads.

The afternoon was along a lovely valley and a 4km climb to Marmelette. I rode through town twice, but could not see anything that looked like a hostel or accommodation. I stopped at a bar to get local intel and there I lucked onto a council run hostel that was also hosting 5 long distance hikers. It was a simple dorm room with bunks, showers, and safe indoor parking for Wally. We had a great evening sharing tips and stories from our Portugal experiences (very limited on my part), while eating at the restaurant next door.

Friday had us all out of the hostel by 7.30 and across the road to the gas station for coffee. I discovered that the free compressed air also delivers pressure water, perfect for chain cleaning.

My second day's ride was similar to the first, nice valleys, some rough forestry roads, and some ride-able climbs. On the way into Ourique (the pig centre of the region, apparently) I raided the supermarket and booked a hostel bed.

The hostel turned out to be an apartment, and it was all mine. Very comfy.

Heading out of Ourique on more lovely "double track"

Ourique to Mertola was unpaved roads through nature reserves and farm land - beautiful riding.

I stopped at a bike shop in Castro Verde to rescue my 2nd from lowest gear, which had been unusable for most of Friday.

At my lunch stop beside the trail I met my first other EDT rider. Dorian is from Austria, has just finished university, and is riding EDT before life gets serious and he has to get a job. Tonight he is wild camping further along the trail, and we are whatsapp buddies so we can share intel from the route.

Tomorrow, I go to Spain.

Mertola is the end of Stage I of EDT, there being 24 stages to Skagen, each about 200km. I'm having a great time, and after 5 days riding and 1 rest day since Faro, this eat-sleep-ride life is feeling good.

Stage 1 of my version of European Divide Trail - 248.9km (The purple line is my actual track, the red line is the version of EDT I'd downloaded in 2022)

Today's ride: 248 km (154 miles)
Total: 253 km (157 miles)

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