June 2, 2023 to June 3, 2023
Aars - Skagen
Stage 24
After the long stretch of cycle way into Aars, there was more on the North side of town. The landscape changed - flatter, sand hills, salt marsh and estuary. At Aggesund we crossed the fjord onto the island that makes up the Northern part of Denmark.
After a bakery stop at Fjerritslev it was onto trails through the dying pine and spruce plantations. Some of the areas had been harvested and the remodeled (by tracked machinery) tracks were tricky to ride. It was clear that local riders were taking advantage of the challenging terrain, and remaking the tracks. On the sections that were not affected by bark beetle or machinery, wood chips had been laid across the deep silky sand. This made a slow, but ride-able surface. Without the chips it was a slow, hard push though deep soft sand.
This is clearly an area of bachs and cribs, with most being set low, painted dark green/ brown and with a sod roof. The disguise works really well, and the visual impact of a hundred houses is minimized.
South of Lokken I had 5kms on the beach, with the cars and the N'ly wind. It brought back memories of riding Ninety Mile Beach, but thankfully didn't last as long.
Lokken is a small touristy destination with several ice cream shops, bars, restaurants and hotels. There was quite a buzz on a sunny Friday afternoon.
I had trouble locating my hotel due to the usual "Google pin in the wrong place" and the less usual "hotel has a new name". I had one of those movie moments of walking into a small bar and killing the conversation, but the barman gave good directions: "yellow building across the road" and the confusion ended.
I planned to set off early the next morning - with plenty of daylight at 0430, "early" gets redefined! - but my combination bike lock would not open.
I knew the bakery was open from 6, so headed that way to accost passing foot traffic for help. I met a lovely chap who lived 3 streets away and took me home to view his workshop of tools. Along the way he must have had time to think about the risk of losing his snips, because he suggested I bring the bike to him. I explained I'd have to carry the bike, so he relented and came with me to the hotel.
Two snips and Wally was freed. Phew! I was so pleased, I hugged the guy and he fled!
My next moment of anxiety was not long in arriving - when I turned Gerry on, he couldn't acquire any satellites. No GPS trail to follow would be a problem!
Fortunately a reboot sorted the issue and we followed the track though soft sand and back onto the beach for another 5km experience. This time we had a light SW breeze.
The tide was just dropping from full and there was plenty of firm sand to ride on. Passing the graffiti covered WW2 debris on the beach was quite eerie, but the show was brief.
At about 2.5km there was a road entry / exit to the beach and the trail led past this. So I'm happily spinning along, firm sand, light tail wind, Gerry indicating a right turn in 2.5 km, all is looking good after a rocky start to the day.
Check out the photo of the stairs up the cliff. EDT goes up/down those stairs. A definite WTF moment!
In disbelief, I checked around for an alternate, say a sensible road, but no. So it was back down the beach to the actual road. I would love to see photos of some fool carrying their bike up/ down those stairs!
After that I let G-maps lead me to Hirtshals, skipping the mtb tracks at Tornby, because by now I was over riding a wide heavy bike through narrow twisty trails.
Lonstrup is an arty town with galleries and ceramic studios - but no coffee - and might be a nice stopover if that's your thing, and you have cargo space.
EDT did no more foolish diversions, largely following Route 1 cycle trails (is that Eurovelo 1?), and delivered me to Skagen by early afternoon.
As is normal with these long rides, you spend weeks focused on moving to the end, but when you get there it's a bit of an anticlimax. You just stop riding!
(Except in Bluff, where the Appleby clan provide a rousing welcome - if you are lucky enough to be riding with Graeme.)
That completes Stage 24, (193km, 640m climbing) and wraps up my Potugal to Denmark ride (mostly) following the European Divide Trail.
Actual stats were: 206km, 710m climbing
I have added an update on my ride stats off Gerry, since returning to NZ.
Today's ride: 206 km (128 miles)
Total: 5,095 km (3,164 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 2 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |