Day 63: Monday, 11 July 1983

Start: Campground, Ouistreham, France

End: Campground, Carentan, France

Up early to see the sights. A little distressed. Restaurant ate up most of my cash last night because they wouldn't take plastic, and every bank and exchange down the coast is closed today. Running on limited francs right now. Basically can only spend money where they will take American Express card. Bummer.

Visited museum at Riva Bella / Ouistreham. Rode up the beaches to the big museum at Arromanches where parts of the wreck of the Mulberry remain visible. Spectacular. Walked up to my cycling shorts in the surf. Great museum with excellent films, models, diorama, etc. Arromanches very pleasant. Could have spent more time there, but much to see elsewhere.

Rode along to Omaha cemetery. Breathtaking. All the crosses, row on row. If all you get in the end is a grave, then this is one of the best you can get. Fair number of tourists, but not jam packed. Noticed the logbook was signed by two other visitors from Illinois today.

Onward to Pointe du Hoc. Jeez! What a cliff. The top a jumble of craters, abandoned bunkers, and broken concrete.

[2010 Note: Further gushing about D-Day sites omitted.]

In sum, spent a long time hanging at various invasion beaches today. Definitely a major highlight of the expedition. Still managed to pedal over 90 klicks. Must be amped up on adrenalin and excitement. Pulled late into Carentan but found a very pleasant campground for only 8 francs, which just about took me down to zero cash. Gotta deal with money tomorrow. Ate at a modest restaurant, choosing my venue based on an American Express sticker in the window, not the cuisine. Ended up going with specialite de la maison without really understanding exactly what specialty the chef had in mind. Turned out to be ris de veau -- cow innards -- again. Gag me with a pancreas. Un-friggin'-believable. That's twice the French have tried to poison me with inedible bits of bovine intestines.

Back to camp. Reading my newest WWII books by flashlight. Jeez, I'll soon have an entire library on board and Bob will be little more than a two-wheel bookmobile. Gotta mail these home soon. 

Utah Beach and more museums tomorrow.

Conditions 

Distance: 92 km 

Weather: Hot 

Road: Good 

Traffic: Moderate 

Terrain: Mostly flat 

Mechanical: All is well 

Physical: Feeling very strong