Day 56: Monday, 4 July 1983

Start: Campground, Malmedy, Belgium

End: Campground, Lescheret, Belgium

Slept poorly in Malmedy. Out early.

More beautiful riding through the Battle of the Bulge. Hilly, but the roads have gentle grades. I seem to get more downhills than ups. Well, I always thought it should be possible to select a route from any point A to any point B and back again that's completely downhill in both directions. No? 

Spent a few minutes at the somber Malmedy memorial. Stopped in St Vith to get Belgian cash, snacks, food supplies, new H2O bottle. Mailed some postcards. Saw some tire patches and -- based on number of recent flats -- bought a pack. Apparently the Belgians are very fond of French fries, and around here "sauce americaine" means ketchup.

Crossed the border into Luxembourg. Had lunch in a cool pine forest along the road near the border. South and then west toward Bastogne. Crossed back into Belgium. Total time in Luxembourg, including lunch: Less than two hours. I think I moved across the country faster than Guderian's panzers did in 1940, and they didn't stop for lunch. Weather getting warmer and warmer.

At Bastogne I spent two hours at the memorial pavilion and museum. Shaped like a five-pointed star, fifty feet tall. Impressive and definitely worth a visit. [2010 Note: Omitting lengthy notes about military history of WWII.] 

Afterwards rode toward Neufchateau in sunny, clear weather with a good tailwind. Found small campground. No motorcycles around today, so it should be much quieter. Picnic in the tent tonight, reading books I bought in Bastogne, even though Bob always groans when I load him up with more printed matter.

Conditions 

Distance: 92 km 

Weather: Warm, some tailwinds 

Road: Good 

Traffic: Light 

Terrain: Hilly 

Mechanical: No problems 

Physical: Feeling strong