Day 15: Tuesday, 24 May 1983

Start: Campground, Campomarino, Italy

End: Europe Gardens campground, Silvi, Italy

Quiet night. Slept well. Up early. On the road quickly. Ankle sore and aching. After rinsing the mud off, it seems to have developed a thin film over the wound, but it cracked and tore and oozed as I rode.

Along this part of the coast, the north-south road options are limited. New highway and old highway. The former restricted and definitely not for bikes. The latter, where I am, not really for bikes either. No shoulder. Heavy, high-speed traffic. Lots of big trucks blowing past me with just a few inches to spare. I think they take this old road to avoid the toll on the new highway. Either that, or there's a trucking convention up ahead.

No rain today, and I have some tailwind, but this is far too nerve-wracking. 

I'm at lunch at a place that resembles a truck stop on a US interstate. Lots of trucks in the parking lot and truckers in the restaurant. They're all drinking red wine with their pasta, although most of them seem to be mixing water with the vino. Great. Just what I need. Big rigs rolling past me with tipsy drivers at the wheel. I'm sticking with water.

Later. Found a bike shop. Bought a replacement toe clip and strap. No suitable saddle available, but I got everything cleaned up and nicely lubed. A guy in the shop very impressed with the Eclipse gear and wanted to know all about it and how he can get the same racks and panniers. He warned me the road north will be fast, crowded with trucks, and lacking shoulders.

I rolled north and planned to stop at Pescara, but overshot my mark and rode an extra ten klicks or more until I found the Europe Gardens campground. Fine. Time for dinner. Hot shower. Sleep. 

Need to think about plans for tomorrow.

Conditions 

Distance: 119 km 

Weather: Warm, tailwind 

Road: Dangerous, winding, hilly, no shoulders for much of the route 

Traffic: Heavy traffic, high speeds, lots of big trucks for much of the route 

Terrain: Hilly 

Mechanical: Saddle and toe clip still broken 

Physical: Flayed ankle aching