How do I describe today. It was quite a ride. Those were 35 windy km. I just read in the weather app that the wind here is gusting between 30 and 50 kph.
We awoke to wind that made the last few days look like child's play. We watched it whipping the trees around and the rain falling in the canal. How much fun can two people have? It was very tempting to stay put in our spacious accommodation and I think we might have had it not been for the very sketchy internet. It wasn't just the wifi...the CN couldn't access data most of the time. It would work for a few moments and then we would get the dreaded no service icon. This makes it very hard to plan, so we decided to go to Vesoul or Gray.
Our wonderful hostess made us a delicious breakfast that we enjoyed while listening to the wind howl. It was lovely to have a space so large we could get the panniers on the bikes inside! Once out in the weather it wasn't as dramatic as it seemed from our cosy nest, but I can honestly say it was the worst weather I have ever ridden in, and certainly over the top in the wind department. Once I got used to being buffeted around I started to really enjoy the ride. The road was very quiet and the rain wasn't bizarrely heavy, just steady. Nothing to scare a couple of West Coast Canadians.
Our gracious hostess and I with Folk and Nero, les cheins. There are no restaurants in Conflandey and she made us a wonderful dinner...tomato and mozzarella salad, quiche Lorraine, fresh baguette, a green salad and cake and crememfraiche for dessert. More than even two hungry cyclists could eat. A bottle of wine too, all served in our cosy kitchen.
The rain was still coming down when we arrived in Port aux Saone. As Keith was looking at routes I was looking around. We were on the sidewalk at a busy intersection. One of the truck drivers looked at me and made what must be a universal gesture for 'you are barking crazy' as I understood him perfectly. Then he laughed and waved and off he went. I thought of the times we have passed touring cyclists on the road in the rain and thought how miserable they must be. Well, don't get me wrong, blue skies and sunshine are infinitely better, but Keith and I were having fun.
Having looked at the busy, busy D road at Port aux Soane we decided to take the bike route. Oh my goodness it was good. If it was this special on a bad weather day, on a good one it would be breathtaking. The trees also provided some protection from the wind and it was very flat. We spun along, happy. This area is really embracing bike tourism and has many, many circle routes to enjoy. Staying at a Gite like we had last night and exploring the routes would be fantastic.
About 20 km into the ride we had a decision to make. Was it going to be Vesoul, only 15 km away, or Gray, 52 km away. It seemed to us the best and more conservative decision was to go to Vesoul, given all the unknowns...weather, topography and accommodation. Vesoul is a cute little town and the young woman in tourist information was very helpful. There is an event in town and the hotels are very booked up, resulting in our averaging our cost of accommodation down. We are staying in a chain called F1, and in my opinion it is a lot less hospitable than a hostel, but it has a bed. Unfortunately the bath is down the hall. It beats sleeping under a bridge. Just barely. Keith had me in stitches doing a much appreciated bedbug inspection. Last night we shared our space with the bikes...about 1600 square feet on two levels. The same tonight but in about 100 square feet. It is a bit tight! When Keith opened the window the wind is blowing so hard outside it blew leaves into the room. The whole situation is pretty funny.
The busy, busy road that we gave a pass to. Thank goodness we did. We ended up on a fabulous designated cycle route that was beautiful.
Then we left the canal and went up into the rolling hills. Look at the quality of that bike path. We were on the Boucle de Courlis route, one of many in the area.
Then, can you believe it, Chris Froome, Warren Barguil and Michael Matthews rode by. Vesoul was on the route this year with one of the stages starting here.
I loved this sign. Safety first! It was absolutely true as well, and they had the intersection set up in a way that would prevent you from accidentally barreling onto the highway.
We walked to a neighbouring restaurant for dinner and poached their wifi, but it was very weak. The hotel is worse. I can't even get the website to load. I am now two days behind on the blog, so fingers crossed for good wifi tomorrow. Hopefully I can get this posted, with pictures to follow. Tomorrow will be another 'interesting' day. Chance of rain 100%. The wind gusts are predicted at between 20 and 30 km an hour, in the wrong direction for us, but that will seem a relative breeze after yesterday. We are heading to Besancon, about 60 km, where there is a train station! Then we will see.
An early morning report, the weather is improving. Chance of rain 90%, wind at 23 kmh. Well, we will get what we get!
This leaf that blew in was so big Keith had to take a picture.
