Bolzano to Mittewald: Can it be? A new favourite bike path?
Last night we just weren't sure how to proceed north. I remembered a guestbook message from a fellow CGOAB writer, Claire. When we took the train down the Brenner Pass into Italy last year I noted in my journal that it didn't seem possible to do it on a bike. She wrote to tell me it was one of her favourite rides, and gave some details about it. I mentioned this to the CN, we did a little research, and here we are, 60 km up the route, just astonished at how fantastic it has been and how lucky we are that the weather was perfect again today.
We loved our hotel in Bolzano. One of the options we discussed over dinner last night was staying put and riding to Merano unloaded and riding back. It was a tempting option, but once we did our Brenner Pass research it seemed the way to go. Merano will have to wait for another tour. So We fueled up at another fantastic breakfast buffet and headed out
Checking out. We just rolled our bikes in the lobby, left them there for the night, and rolled on out in the morning. It was so easy. It was the same at the hotel in Trento.
Our hotel, the Stadt Hotel Citta. Right on the main square and we loved it. We had a room overlooking an interior courtyard and it was so lovely and quiet, with all the advantages of the location.
I was sorry to say goodbye to Bolzano, but we were instantly smitten by our route. The valley was so beautiful, the surface was excellent, and while we were going consistently up, the grade was very manageable.
The route was so well marked it was easy to navigate. At some points early on we could see the bike path, secondary road and the autostrade. It is an amazing network and it was so nice to have our own little part of it.
We were still in the shade in the valley. It rises quite steeply on both sides.
This is a busy valley. You can see all three tracks here...the autostrade, the secondary highway which is also very busy, and the bike route. There are train tracks somewhere too. All in one narrow valley. For a good part of the route though you were completely unaware of the other players.
A small glitch in the perfect path was construction. This doesn't just happen to cars. We did a little single track, barred from our bike path by concrete barriers. Why? That became clear soon enough. They put some nice temporary metal bridge type stuff for us to ride on though.
You can see the autostrade in the background. We still weren't sure why our lovely bike path was barricaded off.
We stopped for lunch in Klausen/Chiusa. The bike route spits you out in the charming old town. Upon exiting the town you go through a thriving industrial area. Bike touring is really so fascinating because you see it all. The signage on this route is remarkable. We had to take photos to show.
You can see why the norm is to do it in the other direction. Keith says anyone can go downhill. So why not try the other way?
A familiar name with the wrong spelling. Everything here has a German name and an Italian name. I stopped in one spot with an intriguing historical something...three languages...Italian, German and French. So intriguing. Anyway, on to Bressanone. That is where we changed trains last year on the post accident Plan B part of the journey.
Back on the bike path we continued to be absolutely amazed by this route. I can't even begin to adequately describe how amazing it is. Smart people would do it in the other direction of course, but so far it has been just fine going uphill! I wouldn't discourage anyone from doing it from the south. Our next stop was Bressanone. We almost breezed by on the bike route, and what a mistake that would have been. Thankfully we decided to take a look around the old centre of town.
Keith went in first, came out and said Mamma Mia! My turn next.
I wandered through with my chin on my chest. Pictures can't even begin to capture the reality. And Keith didn't even take any pictures of my favourite part...ancient frescoes in an open area of arches and beauty and oh my goodness it was amazing. I will never forget it.
After Brixon/Bressanone the track became gravel for a bit. Gravel still makes me nervous and I need to get over it. Honestly, little old ladies on their e-bikes and small children pass me. I have taken to repeating over and over as I ride through it...relax and trust the bike. It helps. We met Klaus and friends on their way down the pass. Such smart people. It was a lovely encounter. We passed Fortessa and had our sights set on Sterzing. It was going to be about 23 more uphill km and we spent so much time in Bressanone it was getting late.
Relax and trust the bike. I love gravel. Relax and trust the bike. I love gravel. Repeat ad nauseum. Actually, this was pretty decent gravel and I did well.
Then a little highway riding due to another detour. From what I could gather, reading a sign in two languages I don't speak...German and Italian...they are building a tunnel through here. Consider your source before you quote me though.
It was about 4:30 and we still had about 15 km to go, and we knew that the grade was going to kick up a notch or two, thanks to all that great signage. The CN asked if I was okay, and I was. We knew we were looking at a possible 6 PM arrival in Sterzing. We were going for it, when what to our wondering eyes should appear but...
Wow! We discussed and decided to stay. Fantastic room, fantastic dinner, fantastic wifi, fantastic decision.
Here is the Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/1233114716 What an amazing day. Onwards and upwards tomorrow. The thighs of steel tour a girlfriend has dubbed it.
Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles) Total: 2,452 km (1,523 miles)
