August 15, 2023
Day 26: Oudewater to Hook of Holland
Last day in the Netherlands
I've been having thoughts – as you do when only your legs are fully engaged in meaningful activity. Thoughts specifically about making connections when travelling.
What draws us to Europe, other than very good cycling infrastructure, is to experience the different cultures, food, landscapes and languages. It’s the ‘otherness’ of the experience that is so appealing.
And while I’m by no means fluent in any language other than English, a smattering of French and German and the goodwill of the listener generally help us get through the transactional situations we find ourselves in regarding food and accommodation.
The last fortnight in the Netherlands though has been an unexpected eye-opener. This is a country where everyone speaks English, nearly always fluently. And by everyone, I mean every single one, of all ages, who we have encountered.
There was the forthright Friesland café owner in the far north who engaged with Bruce in a free-ranging ‘what’s wrong with today’s world?’ discussion before making our coffees. The road cyclist who pulled up beside me while in the sand dunes this week, greeted me in Dutch, then switched to English to talk about cycle touring before powering off on his racing machine. The 67 year old woman with five bikes and no car who loved visiting New Zealand. And the young couple with a toddler and a baby who would love to hit the road on bikes again but were weighed down by their precious family. (I told them about Bryony Telford’s interesting CycleBlaze journal about touring Europe by bike with a toddler.)
These conversations added so much enrichment to our cycling experiences in the Netherlands.
Back to today though. We pack ourselves up, load the bikes and farewell our dairy farmer host. He milks 150 cows twice a day, we find out, and somehow manages to find the time to run five guest apartments.
Our destination is the Hook of Holland to board the Stena Line ferry to Harwich, England. But we set an easy pace because we literally have all day to get there - the ferry leaves at 10pm tonight. We start by retracing our path to Gouda because we want to visit the cheese museum there.
Really?? No, really not. We find a very aesthetically pleasing shop selling all manner of coffee machines, coffee beans and cool paraphernalia. More importantly, it also sells very good coffee – so is an ideal spot to sit out a shower of rain.
From here, we follow the plotted route into the outskirts of Rotterdam. It’s such easy riding, the usual mixture of bike paths, shared paths and quiet roads. One of these roads is a tree-lined oasis of interesting housing styles.
This is a densely populated corner of the country and it doesn’t take long for Rotterdam to turn up. Because it’s still late morning, we agree it’s worthwhile to go into Rotterdam’s centrum for a look around. And I’m glad we do. Rotterdam is unlike any other town or city we’ve come across in the Netherlands in that it has no medieval heart. Instead, it offers a bold skyline of colourful skyscrapers, a vibrant market …and a modern two-storey food hall selling all manner of things to eat.
The reason for all of this frivolous modernity, for those who, like me, have to look such things up, is that on May 14, 1940, Rotterdam was bombed heavily by the Luftwaffe as part of the German invasion of the Netherlands. On our walk around the central city, we encountered the Dom, the only medieval building to survive the bombing, albeit with much damage.
There's a below-ground bike park not far from the food court. Bravely, and having noted the free parking sign, we take our bikes down the stairs (which have a single rail alongside for bike tyres) and ask to park. Kindly, the attendant points us to the ebike section near his window. He's seen our panniers, I guess, and understands what we need. What a great service!
Back on the bikes, well fed and watered, we follow the route of the Maas river along the canal, through shipping yards and suburban streets. Eventually we’re on the coastal path, pushing against a truly determined head wind and counting down the kilometres. The ferry terminal hoves into view, then the small town of Hook of Holland, just across the road from the ferry port
We have dinner at an outdoor café and then it’s time to line up with the boarding cars for our next adventure. So long, Netherlands, it’s been great to get to know you.
Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles)
Total: 1,368 km (850 miles)
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