August 3, 2023
Day 14: Anjum to Oude Bildtzijl
Canal action
This morning starts promisingly. At breakfast, we share commiserations with a Dutch cycling couple. They're riding from west to east - probably the sensible direction in terms of the wind - but rain is indiscriminate and has drenched us all equally.
By the time we're ready to leave, though, there's blue sky. After the experiences of this past week, we've set the bar pretty low in terms of what constitutes a good cycling day, so low that Mother Nature need only shuffle slowly over it. And she delivers. There's a rain-free window predicted for this morning so we set off in sunshine, with scudding clouds and a stiff breeze.
What a difference this makes! Riding in the rain puts you into survival mode: head down, legs pumping, focused on the destination, phone zipped away so no photos . . .This morning, we're noticing so much and talking about what we see. There's time to stop for photo opportunities. Life is good.
We stay inland from the coast, heading south-west. We're soon looking for lunch supplies and the town of Dokkum fits the bill. I'm mildly excited to see a Jumbo supermarket, having cheered on Jumbo-Visma pro riders in the Giro d'Italia and the TdF. A very nice, well-ordered supermarket it is too, a cut or two above the chaotic Aldi I got lost in a few days ago.
With supplies on board, we ride through town and join up with the Dokkumer Ee canal. There’s something going on though. We can see a bridge going up and a bunch of majestic sailboats passing through. I'm worried about missing a photo op but it turns out that cyclists can travel faster along the canal path than boats can sail. We keep each other company for a while, then move ahead, then stop for lunch and wave them farewell - only to catch up again when the boats have the red light at another bridge further ahead.
Eventually our route turns away, taking a right angle turn towards the coast. Also eventually, our good fortune runs out when Mother Nature slams shut the window.
Rain jackets on - again - we face into the head wind when the route directs us onto a long, straight and narrow gravel path. We're following another waterway that delivers us to the pretty little canalside village of Hallum. From here, it's only a few km through the countryside to tiny Oude Bildtzijl, home for the night. It's not even 2.30 but our host is here to greet us, show us the bike garage and recommend that we book a table asap at the restaurant across the road.
We're looking forward to it!
Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 760 km (472 miles)
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