August 1, 2023
Day 12: Leer to Holwierde
Crossing the border into The Netherlands
After a night of drying out clothes and bags (we’re still paying the price for having to leave our bikes outdoors two nights ago) we start today’s ride confidently – though not till after a necessary bank extraction and relaxed morning coffee. It’s the nature of bike touring, isn’t it, that yesterday’s experiences are consigned to the past and we start each day positively.
Our route takes us to Holwierde in The Netherlands. We head south-west from Leer – straight into the teeth of the head wind before veering north-west and over the border. That’s it in a nutshell, but what a mighty struggle it was today! Strava comes up with the evidence at day’s end: The wind blew at 21.3km/hr from WSW. No wonder we average just under 16km/hr.
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I feel as though I am rehashing yesterday as I write this, while looking for some positives from the experience. We’re caught in a couple of rainy squalls early on – so I’m already drinking from the face fountain. But as the day progresses – again through fertile farmland – it’s the wind that consumes our thoughts and energy.
We cross the imaginary line from Germany over a canal bridge and immediately notice the Dutch car number plates. Our aim is to get 30 km done by lunch and by a stroke of luck (a rarity today) find a bus shelter right on the mark. The luck comes in as we manage to sit out a 30 minute squall in relative comfort.
As bus shelters go, yesterday’s was a 4- star one with a great view. Today’s is more like a 2-star. It has a tiny seat and a dry floor to boil the billy, for which we’re thankful, but is close to the road and subject to splashing from passing cars. I’ll get around to posting a review on bus-stops.com on our experiences.
Other than one soaking, from which we have time to dry out, our battle with the wind continues. Frequent stops help. And I even take a turn or two at the front, though I’m not as strong into the wind as Bruce.
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We stop in Delfzijl to forage for tonight’s meal then carry on for just a few more kilometres to our accommodation.
It’s a huge old farmhouse and barn. There is evidence of 15th century timbers in our loft room, and a couple of cute alpacas in their stall below. The floor slopes and creaks authentically and Bruce, who loves his timbers and has built three houses, is in seventh heaven.
We’ve already forgotten today.
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1 year ago
Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 647 km (402 miles)
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