To Pont-en-Royans

April 25, 2022

So we’re in Pont-en-Royans tonight, more tired than we expected to be after what was supposed to be an easy day to rest up for climbs in the astonishing Vercors. The first half of the ride was about as expected - more easy riverside riding along the Via Rhona for five miles until we left it to follow the Isère eastward toward the Alps. The route along the Isere is also well developed and nearly as pleasant cycling as along the Rhone. The countryside is much different here than further south - we’re biking through fruit orchards rather than olive groves, the flowers are different, the soil brown and stony.

We broke for lunch at Romans-sur-Isère, feeling fortunate for another day of good cycling conditions in the valley, even though menacing clouds still hang over the distant ridges.

We’re definitely not in Provence any more.

We parted ways with the Via Rhona here. The Rhone (on the left) and Isère merge here, and we bend to the east.

We bike past miles of fruit orchards, most of them protected like this. I’m not sure of our timing but I think we must be here after blossom season. It must have been amazing a few weeks ago.

Along the Isère. A minute after this shot a car pulled up beside Rachael, rolled down the window, and informed her that this was a pretty stupid place to stop. He was right. My bad.

Thyme I think. At first blush I thought lavender but it’s too early. It makes me wonder about some of the other fields we’ve seen in the Drome that I assumed were lavender.

These fields are so stony! It’s too early in the season to tell, but I wonder what row crops are grown in this soil.

Romans-sur-Isère. The photos below are of the Saint Bernard Collegial Church, the large blockish structure to the left of the bridge.

Saints Peter and Paul, without their heads.

A curious sculpture in Romans-sur-Isere. Fish? Shoe? Cricket?

Where should we stop for lunch today? I’m stumped.

Most of the remaining ride is quite beautiful, continuing to follow the Isère on quiet roads and bike paths until we come to the confluence with the Bourne and leave the Isère for the final miles to Pont-en-Royans. It’s different though, and more challenging cycling. Nothing big, but those short 15-20% climbs up from the river’s edge start taking a toll after the first time or two. That, and we’ve picked up enough of a headwind that it slows us down as well.

Such stony country! You see this in the older buildings and walls. Small smoothed boulders look like the primary traditional building material in the region.

The views into the Vercors become stunning and sobering as we come to the Bourne and start working our way to our hotel in tiny Pont-en-Royans. We were here just seven years ago when I was still a springy 68 and Rachael was at her peak climbing strength, climbing up and down these world famous gorges; but this evening we’re not so sure. From Pont-en-Royans it’s a stiff climb whichever direction you go, and now that we’re here looking up we feel less confident than we did when we envisioned this stay while loafing around our cushy Airbnb back in Portland. We’ll have to see how we’re feeling in the morning.

The Vercors - a sunning, sobering setting.

The bridge across the Isère, just below the mouth of the Bourne.

Video sound track: Bright Moments, by Grover Washington, Jr.

Heart

Comment

Link

Ride stats today: 39 miles, 1,600’; for the tour: 1,069 miles, 49,700’

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 1,069 miles (1,720 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	11
Comment on this entry	Comment	4

Suzanne GibsonGreat video!
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenIf you haven’t done Col de la Machine, consider it. Absolutely spectacular balcony road.
https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/pokingaroundeurope/auberives-en-royans-to-st-jean-en-royans/
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThanks!
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen ClassenWhat a great idea! Too bad it wasn’t to be this time.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago