To Perpignan

March 31, 2022

Well we did a little better this time, but our road map for Occitanie has also suffered revisions already. Our well-conceived plan was blown away by a forecast of three straight days of severe winds. The original thought was to bicycle from Céret to Collioure and then follow the coast north to Canet and then Gruissan. We could have made it southeast to Collioure easily enough today since the winds are howling in from the northwest; but we were afraid we’d get stuck there after that because for the next two or three days we’d be biking into winds gusting to 50 mph. No, thanks.

So instead we’re doing the prudent thing today and biking to Perpignan where we’ll stay two nights and sit out one of the windiest days tomorrow; and if they’re still too fierce for comfort on Saturday we’ll take the train north to Narbonne to put us back on schedule.

Leaving town over the Pont de Diable. The modern bridge is just a few yards to the left - a smoother and less interesting ride than on the old one, but it makes a good perch for viewing the bridge from the side.

It’s a short ride to Perpignan, only 25 miles, generally level with more down than up - not much of a challenge in normal conditions. It’s a ride that breaks almost equally into two parts, with the first half a drop east toward the sea along the Tech. The wind is still waking up this morning when we leave town and it’s angling in from our side and causes us no trouble. These first miles are a delight as we follow a continuation of the same well-marked bike route, here a part of the EV8, that we followed on our day ride north of town yesterday.

Heading south. Almost overnight it seems, the fruit trees have begun to bloom.

I remember this impressive structure! We passed by it four years ago on our late-autumn ride from Céret to Figueres. It’s Chateau d'Aubiry, allegedly one of Walt Disney’s inspirations for Cinderella’s castle.

The ride is generally level, except for the occasional obnoxious steep drop and rise. This 15 percenter gives Rachael an excuse to slow down and enjoy the views.

This unpaved stretch leaves us anxious at first, thinking a reroute is in the cards. Rachael finds a rough footpath through the brush and nettles that lets us skirt the water for the next hundred yards.

Aah, perfect. In the sun, sheltered from the wind.

At the midpoint of the ride we leave the Tech and head north, more or less straight into the wind which by now has mustered strength and pushes forcefully back at us. It’s a slow slog for the next twelve miles, that’s for sure. We’re lucky that so much of the ride is on quiet rural lanes because a fair amount of weaving occurs as we fight for control of our bikes. We’re thankful too for our radar rear lights which warn us of the occasional overtaking car that we can’t hear over the roar of the wind.

An ominous sky ahead as we slowly cycle into a 20-25 mph header.

In these conditions the ride is breathtaking in more ways than one.

The tiny climb through Villaneuve-de-la-Raho is straight upwind, and slows us to a crawl. Cresting the top we get a view ahead of an army of wind turbines flailing away wildly.

A race in slow motion, at about 5.5 mph. They’re both working hard but the younger lady is pulling away - her bike is unloaded, and she’s standing up for more power.

Video sound track: The Wind, by Jacqui Naylor

Finally we arrive in Perpignan, a large city that’s likely the biggest place we’ll pass through in France other than Paris on this tour. It’s quite easy to bike into with a well marked bikeway, but the last two miles are slow going as we stop every few blocks to wait for another light. You really don’t make many green lights when you’re only pedaling at about six mph, as it turns out.

We’re staying at the Best Western, because it’s well located in the center of the historic district and had a competitive rate on. It’s a six story hotel and we’re lucky enough to be dealt a room on the top with a view to the northwest toward Canigou. The small balcony is in the full sun when we arrive and would make a great spot for drying our laundry if it weren’t for the fierce wind that blows in when we open its door. Clothes would dry in a minute in these conditions - probably by the time they hit the pavement six stories down.

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Ride stats today: 26 miles, 1,000’; for the tour: 366 miles, 21,100’

Today's ride: 26 miles (42 km)
Total: 366 miles (589 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	5

Suzanne GibsonThat spring countryside is just stunning! I think that wind is always blowing there. When we were there, fortunately we were traveling in the other direction.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonOur tour in Occitanie in 2007: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/2007france/
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2 years ago

Keith ClassenI like the sound of those radar rear lights … a nice safety feature particularly when the wind is blowing. An ebike would also be handy in those winds but that probably didn’t cross your minds. Looks like a great trip!
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThanks for reminding us of this tour. The winds are daunting alright, but some of our favorite places in France are down here. We hope to see Fontfroide Abbey again when we come back through in autumn.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Keith ClassenAn eBike? What a concept!
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2 years ago