France blew us away today metaphorically and literally for our last stage in the Schengen Zone, leaving us both eager to return in Autumn when we’re eligible to enter the zone again. Our ride up the coast was exquisite with one breathtaking scene after another as we were blown north on a favorable wind that must have been 20 mph much of the way. Not that it was an especially easy ride as we biked first over Cap Gris-Nez (grey nose cape, the closest point in France to England) and then Cap Blanc-Nez (white nose cape). The final miles crossing Blanc-nez before finally descending to the coast for the last time were particularly strenuous with a series of three climbs peaking out at 13, 11 and 10 percent.
For most of the ride we traveled on the still-excellent Eurovelo 4, leaving us both with an interest in studying the map to see where else on this long distance route we might travel some day. Along the way we passed through a pair of small towns and a few gites that looked enticing also. For that matter, all three of these past days along the Opal Coast have been an unexpected delight. It’s easy to imagine us finding ourselves back here someday soon, settled into a base or two for a longer stay. Incredible scenery, excellent cycling, appealing coastal towns, and a level of cycling difficulty that fits well with our current capacities.
Descending from the small headland north of Wimereux, Ambleteuse comes into view.
Still approaching Ambleteuse, which proves to have been further off than it looked in the first photo. The walkers are following the coastal walking trail between the two towns.
Descending to Ambleteuse. Eurovelo 4 mostly follows small paved bike and walking paths but has occasional on-road connecting segments like this. It carries significant biking traffic and all feels quite safe.
This commemorative plaque for five airmen lost here in World War Two struck me as both poignant and quaint. After all the wars, massacres and other horrors we’ve witnessed over my lifetime, it’s hard to picture giving such honor and attention to just five men.
The lighthouse at Cap Gris-Nez. We could have biked our there for a closer look and undoubtedly even more stunning views. From where we’re standing though it’s a steep deop-off and a matching climb to return, and this felt like a good spot to turn back.
On Cap Blanc-Nez. As beautiful as this is, the photos don’t tell the whole story. The wind is strong, and the wheat shimmers as it undulates in waves as we cycle by.
Video sound track: Je ne vous oublie pas, by Musiques Idolees
When we left Wimereux we imagined arriving in Calais about 2:30 and checking our luggage at the hotel so Rachael could take a hike she’s mapped out. That’s not how the day went though - with all the attractions we don’t arrive until around four. After we register and unload in our room Rachael leaves almost immediately for a short hike, while I take a shower and then step downstairs for a tall celebratory beer.
At seven we go out together for a final French fish dinner and then take a slow walk back to the room before plotting out the start of the next chapter of our itinerant lives. The ferry for Dover leaves at ten and we have to show up 45 minutes early, so we make it an earlier end to the day than usual. We don’t want to be late!
The Tour de Guet, a 13th century watchtower crowned by a dovecot. It functioned as a lighthouse until 1848, when it was replace by the new lighthouse above.
