The Sagrada Familia

March 18, 2022

You’re likely already familiar with the Sagrada Familia, or have even visited it yourself. If not, here is a good link for giving you an overview of its remarkable background and history. A work in progress that’s been under continuous construction for 140 years, it is Barcelona’s most visited tourist site. Rachael and I came here in 1997 on our first visit to Barcelona and were lucky to see it when it was much further from completion than it is today, and at a time when you could still climb up into the incomplete towers and look down on the city from above.

The only photo that survived from that first visit. A framed blowup of it hung on the wall of our condo for 20 years. With a feeling then much like a ruined cathedral or abbey, it took more imagination than I have to see it as it is now.

We saw the structure from the outside only when we revisited the city on a rushed one day tour four years ago and were astonished then by how much had changed in 35 years. Looking at the long lines from the outside, it was obvious that visiting it then was out of the question. We’ve got the time now though, and have planned ahead. I would say that Rachael has probably been looking forward to this morning’s visit to the famous Sagrada Familia as much as anything else we expect to see during the whole tour.

The Sagrada Familia getting close to reaching its full dimensions. Before Covid it was hoped that it would be completed in 2026, in time for its 150th anniversary; but construction shutdowns over the last few years has pushed it out.

If you get a chance to come yourself, note that Sagrada Familia is one of those sights that you’re well advised to reserve in advance if you don’t want to be disappointed or wait in an interminable line. Rachael was on top of this and booked us for a group tour in English - the first slot available in the day, before the place got too crowded. Also, note that there is strict security in place, much like security at an airport; and there are clothing restrictions so don’t show up in a halter top or short shorts if you don’t want to risk being turned away.

We don’t opt for guided tours very often but this was an excellent time for one, and we got lucky and our guide Montse was outstanding - knowledgeable and informative of course, but she brought with it her warm, radiant personality and an obvious love for the place.

There is so much to say about this one-of-a-kind project, and much has been written about it. I’ll just add here a few things that Montse shared with us that made an impression on me and I want to remember.

One surprise was her description of the physical setting. When construction began the site was in the middle of the countryside, surrounded by farms and cattle. Since then though Barcelona has expanded far enough to swallow it up and now it’s surrounded by the apartments and commercial developments extending out in all directions.

Along the same line, part of the complete construction site is currently occupied by a few large apartment buildings that will need to be razed before the main entrance to the sanctuary can be constructed. Apparently the properties were sold years ago with clauses specifying the right to reclaim them when they were needed to be complete the project, and purchased at a time when no one believed that would actually happen. Now that it’s getting close to there’s some unhappiness over the coming need to relocate.

About the structure itself, we appreciated learning that the exterior is dedicated to presenting the story of the New Testament, with the west face portraying the birth of Christ and the east the last supper and crucifixion. The interior though honors the glory of the natural world, with the soaring parabolic arches representing trees in a forest with a leafy canopy above.

Other interesting facts relate to construction itself and Gaudi’s evolving vision and his life there. The project was initiated by his mentor Francisco de Paula del Villar, who envisioned a neogothic space with flying buttresses, naturalistic figures, and other traditional gothic features. When Gaudi succeeded him he obviously brought his own unique and revolutionary ideas and vision, and the construction reflects this - the western face where construction began has a gothic appearance much different from the interior and the other sides. Also, it was interesting to learn that Gaudi spent the last 40 years of his life on site, and is buried there in the crypt. And that he had a school constructed on-site for the children of the laborers, needed since of course at the time this was out in the middle of the countryside.

The eastern face, and currently the main entrance until the south side is developed. The central arch is adorned with sculptures of New Testament figures - the manger, the three magi, angels.

Another interesting detail: Gaudi designed his angels without wings.

And another: these figures have an asiatic look. They were designed by a Buddhist Japanese architect who came to Barcelona after the Second World War to contribute to the project and later converted to Catholicism.

The interior - a soaring forest with a canopy above and light streaming in through the trees.

The windows are stunning in their color, diversity and detail. Those in the west (like this example) are in warm colors and those on the east are cooler.

The interior is beautifully illuminated and tinted by light streaming in from either side.

The eastern side is pure Gaudi, a dramatic contrast to the west.

Roman soldiers, looking like they could have stepped out of a Star Wars set.

In a landmark milestone, the spire to the Virgin Mary was completed just last year. When the project is completed this will the second highest of them all.

An illustration of the spires of the four apostles, all of which are still under construction. I was surprised coming here to realize that there’s a real chance that we could come back and see it completed in our lifetimes. I wouldn’t have thought that was possible when we came here 25 years ago.

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Bill ShaneyfeltWhen we were there, I wanted to tour it, but with 2 little kids and a wife not so inclined, I just took photos. Now the slide resides someplace among thousands of European slides I took '76-'78.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bill ShaneyfeltThat must have been something to see it that far back, twenty years before we did. It must have really been less complete back then. If you ever come across those slides I’d be interested to see them.
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2 years ago

Bill ShaneyfeltTo Scott AndersonIf I come across it (scanned just over 800 out of xx thousand photos so far) and can remember, I'll let you see it. Could take years...
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2 years ago