Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

April 10, 2022

Another stellar day - ideal weather, a relaxed, scenic ride on gentle terrain, another Grand Site of France, great but spendy cookies, even the first live snake of the tour! On a high as we walked back to the village under varnished limestone cliffs that reminded us of southern Utah, we felt confident in assigning ourselves an easy A+ for the day; but then were crushed to discover that we’d flunked the final exam.

Any idea where Rachael’s Garmin 1030 Plus went to? You don’t know? Neither do we. C’est dommage!

The ride began with a relaxed five miles south along the Lergue, backtracking our ride into the town.

Along the Lergue the red rock characteristic of Lake Salagou and around is exposed. The is ruffe (derived from the Occitan word rufa, for red), a Permian sandstone layed down in a dry environment from iron-rich clays.

A farmer with an artistic soul, obviously.

The presidential election is today! Hope and pray for the best.

Still near Lake Salagou, the landscape is dominated by exposed ruffe. I think the interwoven black streaks are volcanic though.

Ruffe bricks were a primary, colorful building material here.

A ruffe winegrower’s hut, south of Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquière.

Approaching Montpeyroux, along the Hérault. The peak at the far left is Mount Saint Bardille.

Mount Saint Bardille again, on the right.

Video sound track: Que reste-t-il de nos amours?, By Cyrille Aimee.

Another so called Devil’s Bridge, this one crossing the Hérault gorge. This one dates to the 12th century and is a UNESCO world heritage site for its role on one of the many routes to Compestela.

One of the self-described communists staffing Chez Barmy where we ate lunch, proudly showing off the Marine Le Pen dart board.

The Hérault Gorge. This, together with the surrounding landscapes and villages, are another of the Grand Sites of France.

Another view of the Hérault Gorge, standing on the now pedestrianized Devil’s Bridge, looking at the new bridge. Beyond is a third bridge, for an irrigation channel.

Scrambling briefly along the hiking path (more of a goat path, really) along the Hérault Gorge. It didn’t take us long to conclude it was too dangerous for the likes of ourselves.

In Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, following the Way to Compostela.

Before sunset we followed the Way a short ways out of town, along the Verdus with the Cirque de l’Infernet ahead.

The cliffs along both sides of the Verdus are dramatic - varnished, riddled with caves, they reminded us of southern Utah.

The rocks of Cirque de l’Infernet tower above.

Towering above Saint-Guilhem are the ruins of the Château du Géant, the Giant’s Castle.

We weren’t sure if this guy was alive at first, he looked so shriveled lying on the path. A prod to the tail proved the point though and he slithered off to a safer spot. A pretty snake, maybe 15 inches long. A green whip snake, maybe?

Another view of the Giant’s Castle. I don’t know what the large ruin below is. His dungeon, perhaps.

In Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, at dusk. The crowds have all gone, we almost have the village to ourselves.

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Ride stats today: 33 miles, 1,800’; for the tour: 632 miles, 33,600’

Today's ride: 33 miles (53 km)
Total: 632 miles (1,017 km)

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Suzanne GibsonAgain a gorgeous ride! But a missing Garmin, oh no! What are you going to do?
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2 years ago

Jen RahnYes! Sorry to hear about the Garmin!
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2 years ago

Susan CarpenterThat's a shame about the Garmin. Since you can track Rachael while cycling can you use that way to help you find it? or does it have to be active/on for location to work?
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Susan CarpenterWe did try that, and could see the last place it was on - where we stopped for lunch, and we assume somehow lost there. To find its current location though it would have to be on and we’d have to be within range.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonWithout, for the time being at least until we can find a replacement. One is sufficient in the meantime as long as we stay in contact with each other.
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2 years ago