To Saluzzo

October 14, 2021

Before going to today’s ride, it’s important to clear up a misconception. I did not injure myself on a fall while biking on gravel. Nor did Rachael give me a black eye when I proposed more biking on gravel, which was the set-up I imagined people would read into yesterday’s photo. Frankly, I’m surprised and somewhat disappointed that so many people assumed I just fell off the bike. It must be all that Dolcetto, I suppose some of you were thinking.

The real background is a tale of two parts. First, I threw the chain on my bike. We’re getting to over four thousand miles since my gears were adjusted, and it’s showing. Hopefully we’ll make it back to Portland without needing to patronize another LBS. Also, my chain is filthy. Repositioning it left my hands very greasy, but we were close enough to the end of the ride that it didn’t seem worth cleaning them off.

I was wrong. Two minutes later a bug flew into my eye.

Remarkable what a dab of well applied makeup will do. No one would ever suspect what a grievous injury I suffered 24 hours ago.

It’s friggin’ cold again this morning! Cold outside, cold inside. A big factor here is Italy’s energy conservation regulations. The country is broken up into zones, and indoor heating is prohibited during the warmer months of the year with the date range dependent on the region. In the deep south you can’t turn on the heat until December. Up here where it’s normally colder the range is wider but we’re not there yet. Heat is allowed up here starting tomorrow, so hopefully mornings and evenings will start being warmer in the room.

We’re in quite a nice apartment here in Alba, and it has an 11 AM checkout requirement. Rachael stays in bed under the covers while I brave the cold and walk around town for an hour with the camera, sacrificing myself so that you can get an idea of whether you’d like to see Alba yourself someday. You’re welcome.

Finally, at 11 sharp, we pack up and leave. It’s sunny again of course and the day is heating up quickly, so within about a mile of town it’s already comfortable enough so that we can shed a layer.

Today is one of our easier days, with three modest climbs that all occur in the first ten miles; but after that it’s essentially flat. The first climb rises only a few hundred feet with a maximum grade of about 10%, and then drops us into one of Italy’s many Borgos.

Descending into Borgo. Borgo translates to village in English, and there must be as many Borgos in Italy as there are churches of San Sebastian here. This is the Borgo of Monticello d'Alba, Province of Cuneo.

Church of the Nativity of Saint Mary V., in Borgo.

Near Borgo. Above: Castello Roero; below: a hazelnut grove.

The second climb is even shorter, little more than a speed bump on the far side of Borgo. This one drops us into Santa Vittoria d’Alba.

On the ridge: the castle Santa Vittoria d’Alba, now a restaurant.

And then finally the big one, which isn’t really that big but does max out at 14%. We drop from there to Bra, and then it’s all smooth sailing the rest of the way to Saluzzo. One of the easier rides of the tour.

The Church of Saint John the Baptist, in Bra.

Some Piedmontese cattle, a breed that originated in this region. Their strange, almost emaciated look is because they carry a unique gene mutation that causes hypertrophic muscle growth, or double muscling.

It cost us some extra distance, but a few detours that took us off the arterials were miles well spent.

Under the bridge over the Maira, at Cavellermaggiore.

Video sound track: Pavane, by Pablo Segovia Gardel

We’re in Saluzzo for two nights. We stayed here two nights three years ago also, loved the town, and are happy to be coming back. It was an odd stay then though, because of a booking error - we arrived at our hilltop hotel late in the day and were met with blank stares and a fully booked hotel because we had booked the room for November instead of October. The hotel agent managed to find a room for us at the neighboring hotel, but for one night only. We had to relocate the next day to one down in town.

This time we did better and booked for the right dates. As a reward, this hotel upgraded us to a larger room. Later in the evening though they let us know that they made a mistake themselves, not knowing this room was only available for one night. So we have to change rooms again tomorrow, which must be our theme for Saluzzo. At least it’s in the same hotel this time.

I really like Saluzzo and its arcaded streets. They must see a lot of rain and snow here.

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Ride stats today: 37 miles, 1,700’; for the tour: 2,065 miles, 74,200‘

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 2,065 miles (3,323 km)

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