To Prüm, and beyond

August 22, 2021

Breakfast at our hotel isn’t until eight so we have plenty of time before then to look at the weather and consider our options for the day. We have several considerations to factor in. We have to check out here by 10:30, and check in at our hotel in Prüm doesn’t start until the unreasonably late hour of five this afternoon. The forecast for the day looks less grim than it did yesterday, with several dry periods that look like they might do for some sort of activity. It looks like we should at least have time to make the big 4.4 mile dash to the next hotel during one of them.

Rachael calls up our hotel in Prüm to see if an earlier check in is possible, or at least if it’s possible to stop by and drop off luggage and/or the bikes. We’re told that if we arrive before eleven when their check out ends and they close the hotel for the day we can leave things there - or at least Rachael hopes that’s what she was told, since the man she spoke with speaks no English. So, a semi-plan falls into place. We’ll leave here in time to get there before eleven and spend the afternoon taking a hike, a ride, or just hanging out in town somewhere during the afternoon.

We take our time over breakfast thinking we’ll leave the hotel about ten during a several hour dry period the forecast suggests. We’re in the midst of an enjoyable conversation with a young Dutch couple nearing the end of a motor cycle tour that took them through the Alps at Chamonix, across northern Italy into Slovenia and back, when suddenly their eyes widen and we turn to look out around to the window behind us. It’s pouring outside. We may not be making it to Prum by 11 after all.

But it passes in about twenty minutes. We rush to get ready to leave, there’s the usual sniping back and forth about why we (I) always cut things too close, and we’re on the road by not long after 10:30. The road is wet, there’s no shoulder, it’s busy, but we hustle as best we can hoping to make it to Prüm on time. Our time budget is busted though when we leave the highway for a quieter side road which soon turns to dirt. Then to muddy dirt, and a short climb so steep we both have to dismount and push for a few hundred yards.

I make it up faster and race ahead, making it to the hotel at 11:05. It’s fine. Folks are still around for a few minutes. The manager of the hotel speaks reasonable English and is very accommodating. Unfortunately our room won’t be ready for an hour or two, but we can have the keys now and let ourselves in whenever we want later. Yes, we can leave our luggage here - just drop it in the hall outside of our room. Terrific news.

A few minutes later Rachael arrives. I tell her the news, we quickly unload our gear, and as a bonus she has time to use the restroom at the hotel before they shut down for the day.

And as a super-bonus, the weather cooperates. It looks like we have maybe four hours available so we immediately leave for an out and back to the west that we had marked out. We’ll bike as far as it looks like our weather is holding, and Rachael can go ahead at her own pace while I take my time with the camera.

We’re really in luck. The ride itself is brilliant on another of these fantastic rail to trail conversions. The weather cooperates and we get the entire ride in. The route takes us through beautiful country, mostly along flooded streams bright with prolific wildflower displays and then up into the High Fen again.

And as an over-the-top bonus - that alarmingly steep spot our Garmins warn us is waiting for us up the path? We don’t have to take it. There’s a quarter mile long tunnel bored through the crest of the divide.

Biking west from Prüm, following the Prüm River gently downstream on another perfectly maintained rail trail. This is the last I’ll see of Rocky for the next two hours, but thanks to our new Garmins I can keep an eye on her. I know her position on the route, how far she is ahead of me, and how fast she’s moving.

The Prüm seems more stream than river, although I imagine it has its moments.

The Prüm swells out significantly here, flooding the fields. Some of this is from last night’s rains - when we return past this point a few hours later these fields will have dried out considerably. They’re hard to make out but there’s a gatherings of herons in the water at the far left.

Four of at least eight. Twice that if you count their reflections.

Leaving the Prüm we continue west, still on a cycle path but now gradually climbing.

At Pronsfeld, another outdoor train museum. The passenger car also serves as a small trail side cafe.

So many choices! So far we’re quite impressed by the cycling infrastructure in Germany.

A trail-side cowline. Curious that one is facing backwards. You’d think those two would tire of gazing into each other’s eyes, but what do I know? I’m not a cow.

Spectacular. There are several long stretches of the creek we’re following where it is ablaze in wildflowers.

The other half, more or less. There are other contributors but these are the primary ones.

Gradually gaining elevation, we’re up in the High Fen natural park again.

Breaks our hearts. We were SO looking forward to the 12% spike that our Garmins have been promising us.

It’s about a quarter mile long, gradually curving tunnel. Without the lights it would be pitch black just yards from the entrance.

Beyond the tunnel the great riding through the High Fen continues. Rachael reaches the end of our marked route and has doubled back to meet me, but then turns around again to join me in biking further because the ride is so scenic.

Another beautiful marshy spot. A sign nearby says to watch for Bibers (beavers) here, but we don’t see any.

Really a pretty ride, and even more so now that the sun has come out.

End or the road. Time for a snack before turning back.

We’re back at our room about three, store out bikes in the garage out back behind the hotel, and spend the rest of the afternoon loafing around until dinner starts at six. Around four we hear the rumbling of thunder outside and soon afterwards the rains begin. Dinner is excellent. We’re very pleased with this hotel and the day as a whole.

The day ends more or less as it began, with us looking at the ever changing weather forecast and discussing our options for tomorrow. It’s due to rain or at least shower throughout the day, so we may just be going 25 miles to Bitburg where we have a cancellable room booked. If the weather breaks at all favorably though we’d like to continue on to Trier and have a second night there to explore the famous historic city. We’ll see how things look in the morning.

A postscript

We’ve stayed in three hotels in Germany now and eaten at three restaurants - two of them in the hotel we were lodged at. Enough experience for us to share our observations about traveling here in the time of Covid. So far at least, observed protocol and behaviors have varied but nowhere have they been a barrier or even an inconvenience.

In Monschau our hotel required only a verbal statement that we had both already been vaccinated; and the restaurant required only that we be masked until seated at our outdoor table. About town folks were mixed, with maybe a third of them masked and others not.

In Fleringen last night we were required to present our vaccination cards, although the manager didn’t really look at them - it was enough that we pulled out documents to present when requested. We were expected to be masked when walking about inside the hotel; and at the table we were each required to complete contact tracing forms.

In Prüm we were greeted with an unmasked smile and no mention was made of our vaccination status. A bit surprising but then the hotel was nearly empty. Only two other tables in the large dining room were occupied while we ate dinner.

So, for what it’s worth, so far it’s no more difficult to travel here than we experienced back home and probably much safer because the infection rates here are much lower.

The attractive dining room at our small family-run hotel, the Landhotel am Wenzelbach. Very appealing spot, good restaurant, quite bike friendly.

Rachael’s meal: mushroom-stuffed braised chicken breast with porcini mushrooms in a Riesling sauce, with assorted vegetables and doppenkoochen (a regional specialty).

Scott had the daily special: half a roast turkey with rosemary and thyme baked in its own stock, with baked apple and ‘napkin dumplings’ (serviettenklobe). You’d think this would be enough, but we shared two desserts - one a hot honey-almond cake with ice cream, the other a warm chocolate nut soufflé with chocolate ice cream.

Heart

Comment

Link

Ride stats today: 41 miles, 3,100’; for the tour: 426 miles, 10,700’

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 426 miles (686 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	13
Comment on this entry	Comment	4

Gregory GarceauI cannot believe how often you two find yourself under the threat of rain on this tour--both in the U.S. and in Europe. That's messed up. For your next tour, may I suggest the Sahara or Gobi Deserts.

In my backpacking days, a friend and I endured a soaking rain in Wyoming's Wind River River range one year, followed three consecutive days of rain in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana the next year. We agreed that we were done with the western mountain ranges, and thoroughly enjoyed the next few years in the deserts of the American southwest. Never a drop of rain.

Well, there was a flash flood in Death Valley. But that's a whole 'nother story.
Reply to this comment
3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Gregory GarceauI know. We are SO unlucky. Life’s not fair. Poor us!
Reply to this comment
3 years ago

Susan CarpenterHi Scott - Thanks for the postscript info re Covid protocols/requirements. It’s reassuring to know that everything seems to go rather smoothly, despite the variability. I’m busy uploading/sending my docs and keeping fingers crossed for no roadblocks before Sept 5 when I leave for Paris. Looking forward to seeing you and Rachel in Salzburg
Reply to this comment
3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Susan CarpenterGlad to hear you’re still planning on coming over. I wouldn’t miss it if you can succeed in getting in. It certainly feels safer and saner than back home. Get back in touch once you arrive and we’ll start scoping out restaurant candidates. Not long now!
Reply to this comment
3 years ago