To Portoferraio (Elba)

October 27, 2021

The day begins with beautiful, relaxed miles as we continue south through virtually flat country, for the most part on cycle paths or virtually empty roads. It begins with a dedicated cycle path that extends for two miles south of town alongside the highway, leading to a large industrial facility with a cooling tower that leads me to misinterpreting it as supporting a nuclear power plant. Actually though, this is the Solvay soda ash factory. Soda ash has been produced here for over a century, and Rosignano Solvay was created as an industry town supporting it. Although significant progress has been made to clean up the facility, twenty years ago this was viewed as one of the worst industrial waste sites in Italy. Nearby is a spectacular white sand bathing beach, artificially produced by industrial waste.

Beyond the plant though our route separates from the road and follows virtually flat lanes and paths through pine forests and along literal dunes for the next five or six miles.

The view back toward Rosignano Solvay. The first two miles follow this minor highway on a separated bikeway. Quite scenic, even with the presence of the Solvay soda ash plant.

South of Rosiganano Solvay, cycling through a pine and live oak forest.

Our route parallels the coastline, but inland by a few hundred yards and visually cut off by forest and low dunes.

We’re biking down a broad, flat agricultural apron that gradually narrows as we move south.

South of Rosignano Solvay we capture the day’s obligatory unmetaled road image.

About ten miles into the ride we join SP39, Via Vecchia Aurelia, and will follow it south for the next thirteen miles, all the way to San Vincenzo. A highway, but a very lightly traveled one and an excellent cycling route because nearly all motorized traffic here uses the nearby modern highway that parallels it - still the SS1, but here the controlled access E80. This is a beautiful stretch, as for mile after mile we cycle between long rows of plane trees lining the highway and enjoy wonderful views inland across vineyards and olive groves to the hills behind.

For mile after mile we bike between rows of plane trees yellowing with the season. Don’t ask why Rachael is biking in the wrong direction here, but she has her reasons.

We enjoy wonderfully scenic views east across the vineyards and olive groves. Here, this long access road lined with pines leading up to a wine estate is especially attractive.

At San Vincenzo we stop for a quick lunch at the beach, happy to have found a small park with benches where we can enjoy our meal and the views without filling our shoes with sand.

Afterwards we continue on, with the road gradually getting some contour as we approach Piombino and the ferry terminal to Elba, our destination for the day. We’ve been maintaining a brisk pace (or at least brisker than our usual pokey standard) because we’re hoping to arrive in time for the 3:00 departure. We arrive with a half hour to spare, leaving us plenty of time to find the ticket office, get our tickets, and queue up for our departure.

A decent spot for lunch, in San Vincenzo.

South of San Vincenzo we continue to bike past stirring views like this.

And this. Even though we’re on a mission and in a hurry, we keep passing scenes like this that I can’t resist stopping for.

And on the seaward side of the road we cycle past miles of unbroken pine and oak forest, part of a narrow band of a natural preserve lining the coast here.

We were hoping to make the 3:00 sailing, and we easily do. If we had missed it though there were others today: one at 3:30, another at 4:15, and on into the early evening. There are three different lines servicing our route even at this low season, and a fourth one in the summer. Today we’re sailing with Moby, the carrier that runs the largest vessels - large enough that we wait for fifteen minutes after our leviathan of a ship arrives while it disgorges passenger cars and giant trucks.

Video sound track: Il Regalo piu Grande, by Tiziano Ferro

Our ship comes in. Today we’re sailing with Batman.

The crossing takes about an hour, and might be the most enjoyable ferry ride we’ve ever experienced. Usually it’s too cold and windy to stay on deck for long but today the wind is from the north, and on the south we sit in the sun and enjoy the views while sheltered from the winds by the ship behind us.

Maybe the most enjoyable ferry crossing ever.

The view back to the mainland, across the islet of Cèrboli.

Another view back toward the mainland. In the foreground is a ship of Toremar, one of the other carriers servicing this crossing. Behind is the islet Palmaiola, with its lighthouse. And in front is a caribinieri officer, armed with a stun gun - and, as Rocky observed, looking hot in his sharp uniform.

Elba! The red color is from the formation that in the past was mined for iron ore.

Another view of Elba. It looks like a fantastic place to to visit, like a miniature Corsica.

Our bikes are at the front of the ship. We were the first on board, and are the first off. Five minutes after landing we’re greeted on the sidewalk by our host Alexandro, who’s there waiting for us because we texted him when we boarded the ship. We’re staying in an apartment on the top floor of an eight story apartment complex, directly opposite the ferry terminal. It’s essentially a penthouse unit, with a balcony around the perimeter giving spectacular views in all directions. It’s totally amazing, one of the most striking settings we’ve ever stayed in. The unit we’re staying in is a fairly small room opening into a large common area with a kitchen, dining room and living room. We share it with one other unit, which tonight at least is unoccupied. So we have this fabulous spot all to ourselves for the moment; for roughly 110 euros/night.

We’re booked here for four nights, but looking around and looking at the forecast of rain and strong winds due to commence in four days from now, we’re thinking we might extend. Hard to imagine a more agreeable spot to wait out a storm.

The view down from our apartment. We’re almost directly above the ferry terminal.

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Ride stats today: 39 miles, 900’; for the tour: 2,492 miles, 87,000‘

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 2,492 miles (4,010 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	6

Jacquie GaudetYou made it to Elba! As you know, it’s in the Scribble plan. I hope you enjoy your time there.
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetIt is wonderful! I had a great hike today. FYI, we are staying at Dal Sandro B&B which has a spectacular view.
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3 years ago

Jacquie GaudetGood to know! We have 3 nights booked at Hotel Villa Ombrosa which hopefully also has a nice view. It has a beach too, but I don't know if I'll be swimming in May. Al might.
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetIt looks great! You’ll have a wonderful time.
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3 years ago

Suzanne Gibson4,000 km and page 100!
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonAlso, 5,000 miles for the complete tour, which we didn’t notice yesterday.
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3 years ago