To Mesenich

August 27, 2021

We’re down for breakfast at first call this morning, after being awakened sometime earlier by church bells just outside our window. We take our seats next to a solitary diner who soon opens up a conversation with us that continues through most of the meal. John is very engaging and interesting and we feel an immediate connection with him - he’s interested in travel himself and he and his wife seen a lot of the world in his years. He’s British, lives now in southeast Ireland, and in the past lived here in Bernkastel for about ten years. He’s a very youthful 75, just about three months older than me. I didn’t register at the time that he must have just had his birthday. If you read this John, happy birthday!

Exchanging addresses with John at breakfast this morning.

We don’t have the gorgeous weather today that we saw yesterday, but it’s fine enough. Partly overcast, dry, cool, somewhat windier than yesterday. The critical word in that forecast of course is dry. We’re quite happy to continue our streak of good weather and fortune for another day.

Today’s ride surprises us, coming right after yesterday’s beautiful cruise through the vineyards. It surprises us by being if anything even better, which we wouldn’t have thought possible. For one thing it’s a fine ride for the entire distance whereas yesterday we had those merely above average first miles from Trier to factor in. The main thing though is that the terrain has become more dramatic as we move downriver. The bends in the river seem tighter and the slopes higher and shearer. And, all in all it feels less tame and heavily traveled. Maybe it’s because it’s a greyer day, or maybe the added distance from Trier makes it less accessible for day trippers. Whatever the reasons, it’s a brilliant ride.

We’re still surrounded by these emerald slopes for miles on end. They have a different feel under today’s lighting than under yesterday’s sun and blue skies.

The view from our lunch stop, on a riverside bench in Traben. The boat is a river ferry from Bernkastel that has just released a load of bicyclists in front of us and then turned around to the far bank for the return sailing.

If we come through here again, I want to stay in Hotel Bellevue next time and take that wine cruise.

Look at how steep these slopes are. You wonder how they manage to cultivate them.

Here’s part of the trick. There are cogwheel cars all along the way to shuttle workers up and down. I wonder how harvesting is managed though.

Somehow this manages to keep taking our breath away mile after mile.

Rachael does a fair job racing this train, as you can see in the video.

There are any number of attractive spots you could lay over, but Pünderich looks especially appealing. There’s a ferry crossing here to shuttle you to the other bank. When we biked past it was just unloading a mix or bikers and walkers.

Here are some of the walkers that deboarded the ferry here. It looks like this is the beginning of a marked hiking route, or maybe a continuation of one from the other side.

Looking back on the day now though I feel some regrets. I wish we’d locked up the bikes here and followed those walkers up to the top of the ridge to Marienburg, a former convent with a thousand years of history. I’m sure Marienburg itself must be fascinating, but look where it s hands! The view feom there of the Mosel doubling back on itself must be astonishing.

Or more probably they’re climbing up to Marienburg. We should have followed along, if we’d only known better.

If we ever bike the Mosel again, we’re going up there.

Breidel I think, but I’m not sure. Too many spectacular villages to keep them straight.

Another tight bend in the river. If you were inclined to take a river cruise, this must be an amazing one.

There are so many brilliant looking places along the river here, but somehow I booked us into a tiny, pretty uninteresting one. I don’t remember now why we ended up in Mesenich - maybe it seemed like just the right distance for breaking up the ride, or maybe the lodging in beautiful Bellstein just around the next bend looked too expensive. The B&B we’re staying at is fine enough and had a decent restaurant nearby; but I’d probably look elsewhere.

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Ride stats today: 41 miles, 800’; for the tour: 556 miles, 14,200’

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 557 miles (896 km)

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Suzanne GibsonThose vineyard slopes are beautiful - and would be fantastic in autumn colors, too. Another ride to put on our list.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonI’ve been thinking about autumn here myself. It definitely feels worth a second look some year.
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3 years ago

Rich FrasierYou've done it again! Yet another ride to add to my rapidly growing collection of "tours for the future". Beautiful pictures and great info! Thanks!
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierThanks, Rich. Quite a spectacular ride, alright. It’s going on our future ride list as well.

Cheers,
Scott
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3 years ago