To Bassano del Grappa

October 1, 2021

The day begins with what we both imagine will be a fool’s errand: a slight detour to stop by a bike store on the off chance that they’ll have a replacement for my rear tire. The shop owner greets us on the sidewalk and I communicate the issue. He looks down at the bike, looks doubtful, and mutters that it’s not normal; but he beckons his assistant who then goes back into the storeroom for a look. Success!

While he’s mounting the new tire, Rocky checks out the clothing rack for a new cycling shirt; and she’s successful too, as you’ll soon see. At the last minute I add in another spare tube, and am amazed when they ask which valve stem I prefer - European or American. I’ve never found a 20” tire with a schrader valve in Europe.

So, a 3T shopping spree - tire, tube, and tank top.

Leaving Conegliano. We passed these steps three years ago on our way north to the Dolomites. Then they were covered with bins of grapes, for the autumn solstice Uva Sulla Gradinata (grapes on the steps) event.

After yesterday’s deflating experience we’ve decided to stop in at every larger bike shop along the way, hoping to get lucky and find a replacement for my worn rear tire. What luck to score at the first stop!

The next few miles are nothing to write home about as we ride the busy highway west out of Conigliano. Soon enough though we’re cycling through a vast sea of vineyards - this region is the homeland of Prosecco; and once we cross the Pieve and turn north toward the hills again the quality of the ride really improves. Especially pleasant is a very quiet stretch along a small canal, with traffic limited mostly to bikers, joggers, and kids on their way home from school.

West of Conegliano, we’re following the Prosecco Route. This region is the Prosecco Capitol of the world.

On the ridge above a Prosecco sea rises Castello di San Salvatore.

Crossing the Pieve, rushing seaward down from the Dolomites.

From across the Pieve, looking back at Castello di San Salvatore again.

And one last look back before leaving the Pieve behind.

What happens when squash turns bad - it gets locked up in a gourd tower.

For the next four or five miles we enjoy a peaceful ride along this small canal. I don’t understand the labeling though, because the Brentella Canal is further south, near Padua.

These were the most pleasant miles of the day, other than carefully squeezing past the few cars traveling the narrow lane.

We stopped for lunch here, on a bench beside the canal listening to the occasional splash of a jumping fish.

Rachael is getting antsy and is bugging me to go, but we have to wait for this guy checking out my bike jersey and rain coat.

It’s unusual to bike upstream along a waterway, watching it grow larger as you move closer to its source. It’s because it’s being tapped and diminished along the way to irrigate the surrounding fields.

Which brings us to a mile from Asolo, the striking ridgetop village perched high above the plain. We stayed in Asolo 23 years ago, on our ride from Ljubljana to Venice. It’s one of those places etched in our memories that we both swore we would revisit if we ever passed this way again. So of course we have to go.

It’s a very steep half mile climb up to the village. Last time, 23 years younger, we walked nearly the whole way. Not because it was so steep though. There was an event on when we arrived, a wierd chariot race up the hill from the plain to the heart of the village. The chariots were powered by teams of runners dressed in Roman slave costumes, panting and groaning their way up the slope hauling the chariots behind them. We walked because the sides of the road were packed solid with spectators cheering them on. When we finally arrived in the plaza at the top it was so densely crowded that we lost sight of each other and it took awhile to find each other again.

It wasn’t like that today. Nothing to hold us up today but this half mile long 12-15% climb. When we arrive at the top Rachael sounds angry at me and swears that she’s never coming to Asolo again and then goes on a hunt for ice cream. She finds one, cools off, and then goes off on a walk by herself for a few minutes and finds another.

While she’s off, I enter into a fractured chat with four folks who have stopped by our bicycles, the guys intrigued by the small wheels and the apparent lack of a battery. We have a warm, animated conversation, with Rachael joining us a few minutes later. They have an interesting set of questions, that grow more interesting as they gradually understand our lifestyles. Are we retired? What did we do for work? How old am I (they liked my answer to this, because the wives are bout my age)? And how compatible are we? Do we get along well, with so much time together?

We get along fine, as long as I don’t bring Rocky up to Asolo again.

It’s not a difficult ride today, with one noteworthy exception: the painful climb to Asolo. That’s its ruined castle above. Thankfully we’re not climbing that far - not quite.

In Asolo, chatting with some Venetians on tour who were lured in by the funny bikes.

And then, we drop off the other side, with our destination now only about the ten miles away. It takes awhile though, because in between here and there are a few more smaller hills, one 10%, that are an unwelcome late addition to the day.

Bassano del Grappa surprises us by what a beautiful town it is. Had we known and planned better, we’d have been happy to enjoy a longer stay here. Instead we’re content with an hour of walking through its centro storico and enjoying possibly the best meal of the tour so far.

Asolo and Bassano del Grappa are both well worth a look. And you’ll get one if you keep following along, once that rainy day comes around.

Video sound track: The Gypsy, by Urban Knights

West of Asolo, dropping toward Bassano and the Brenta River.

In Bassano del Grappa, about to step inside for one of the best meals of the tour.

Image not found :( — Our server shows us the local white she’s picked for us. Vespaiolo, named after the wasp.

The antipasto: grilled crostini. The main: sea bass fillets baked with potatoes, tomatoes, black olives and capers.

In Bassano del Grappa, making our slow way back to our hotel.

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Jacquie GaudetThat's quite a notable hill through Asolo compared to the rest of the route!
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetIt’s a climb to remember, alright. It’s avoidable if you just stay down on the plain, but the signed bike route goes over the top. Because why not?
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3 years ago

Ride stats today: 43 miles, 1,700’; for the tour: 1,678 miles, 59,300

Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 1,678 miles (2,700 km)

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