Well, apparently the good weather hasn’t completely left us quite yet. Today it’s gorgeous again. It’s getting chilly though - down to 48 when we get up this morning - so we give it some time before starting out. But not too much time - we have an important errand to see to when we arrive in Salzburg.
A photo from last night: our lodging in Mondsee. Nice place, good breakfast, good storage for the bikes. Our room was on the right, looking down on Zeller Ache. It made a soothing sound to go to sleep to.
The direct route back to Salzburg, essentially backtracking the start of our ride to Sankt Gilgen when we began our Salzkammergut loop, is only about 23 miles - too short for such nice riding conditions. Instead we take a longer way back, an inverted horseshoe north past two of the minor lakes in the basin, the Irrsee and Wallersee. First though we can afford a few minutes to bike down the waterfront for a blitz look at town.
In Mondsee. We did such a poor job of showing you Gmunden that we thought we’d better at least take a quick look around this town before leaving it.
Saint Michael’s Basilica, which you’ve probably seen already because the wedding scene from The Sound of Music was filmed here. Built in the 15th century, it is the second largest church in Upper Austria. It receives 200,000 visitors a year, but we just looked at it from the outside.
Jen RahnThat is a stunning photo! Makes me wish I was one of the people in the boats. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnI was stunned this myself. I couldn’t believe it when we biked down to the lake and looked out. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
I couldn’t say why we took the route out of town that we did, following a rough stream-side walking trail north for the first mile rather than taking the obvious course by following the well marked R2 route. Chalk it up to sloppy, rushed mapping. It might work for you, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Very pretty though.
We found an interesting way out of town, following the small stream that flew beneath our window last night. Not really quite suitable for a road bike - more of a hike and bike experience. Pretty, but not recommended. Next time I’d just stick with the R2.
North of that though we connected back into the network of farming roads west of the Irrsee and soon reconnected with the R2. We enjoyed wonderful cycling for the rest of the way north and then back to Salzburg, which you’re probably getting tired of hearing by now. Every day of this five day loop through the lakes has been great, and it hardly feels like we’ve exhausted the area. I’m sure you could have a brilliant few weeks touring just around Salzburg and never really go anywhere else.
After a mile of that we reconnected with the road network and started working our way toward the Irrsee.
The view across the southern end of the Irrsee. The leftmost peak is our old friend Schafberg. From this angle you get a good perspective on how much higher it is than it’s neighbors.
The route alternates between small paved farm roads and paths through the woods. Navigation is pretty simple as long as you’re paying attention, which we weren’t always.
We were just thinking about lunch when we came across a row of bikes leaned against this wall, crowding the narrow bike path. About 20 of them, if you include ours. They must be here for a reason, so we added ours to the collection.
This must be one of our favorite lunch stops ever. An incredible spot right on the water. Nearly everyone in the restaurant obviously arrived by bike, though there was a sea kayaker here and maybe a few other boaters.
Looking back at the restaurant (Stegerl am See) from its rickety pier. A warning sign inside absolves the restaurant of liability if you lose your footing.
