In Saluzzo: the Airasca to Moretta cycle path

October 15, 2021

The day begins with a curious start, as we have to leave the room we were upgraded into yesterday because it was only available for one night. At breakfast we’re told our new room will be ready by 10:30, so we can just walk our belongings down the hall before leaving on the day’s ride. No problem. It’s very cold this morning indoors and out, and we’re in no hurry to get started.

At 10:30 we pack up, walk down to the hall to our new room, and find that it’s still a mess from last night’s guests. No problem, because it’s still cold anyway. At eleven though, I go downstairs and ask the host what to do. Just move our belongings into the new, unmade room, and the cleaning crew will work around them. So we do, and head out to get the bikes.

It’s still quite cold, and rather damp and foggy. About a mile into the ride Rachael wails that she’s miserable - she didn’t dress warmly enough or bring her warm gloves - and just wants to go back to the room and get under the covers, if we only had a ready room to return to.

We won’t have such a refuge available until later in the morning so she does the best she can and quickly bikes ahead of me, hoping that if she picks up the pace she’ll generate enough heat to survive. It’s a good day for that, as we’re on an out and back. I’ll just meet up with her down the road somewhere.

It’s foggy this morning and will remain hazy all day. This is the best view we’ll get of the mountains just west of us.

After a couple of days in the hills and vineyards, we’re back in the ultra-flat Po Valley. The river arches north around Turin, but further west the valley bends south again and broadens out in a bowl surrounded by hills near the river’s source beneath spiky Mount Viso. We won’t see Viso today though because of the fog, so sights are restricted to the usual - miles of newly shorn corn fields and hay bales, columns of poplars, and the occasional village.

It’s a great ride though. After about twelve miles on mostly empty farm roads we come to the southern end of the Airasca to Moretta cycle path. This is a wonderful bit of cycling infrastructure along the course of the former train line between Airasca and Saluzzo, which was active from 1884 to 1986. In 2011 the 18 kilometers of northern half of the old line were converted to a rail trail, with the remaining miles to Saluzzo undeveloped because they were still in use as a freight line. The freight line has since been eliminated also, and now the plan is to eventually complete the cycle path all the way to Saluzzo.

Smooth, surprisingly scenic, passing through dying towns that once thrived along the former line, it’s a very relaxed, enjoyable ride. It would be wonderful to come back and ride the complete line from Saluzzo once the lower half of the trail is developed. And it would be even better to ride it on a clear day when you can see the mountains rising just to the west.

There’s lots to see, so Rachael gets well ahead of me. The sun comes out and warms the day up, so by the time she’s doubled back and we meet up at Scalenghe and have lunch by the abandoned train station there she’s warmed up herself and enjoying the ride.

Later when we return to our room we’re further warmed up by an exciting discovery: the radiator in the bathroom is generating heat. It’s October 15th!

More of those double muscled cows the region is famous for.

They really do have an emaciated look, and maybe they really are so. This young lady is ambling over to see if I’ve brought breakfast, while the others keep an eye on her to see how it goes.

Finally! A crossing of the mighty Po that doesn’t strain your nerves.

No problem at all, as long as you follow it all the way upriver to its source.

A hay bale drops in on the poplars. Looks like a scene from a bowling alley.

In Villafranca Piemonte, words from the not so distant past: “The guarantee of peace rests on our armed forces.” - - - Mussolini

Crossing another raging torrent, the Pellice - one of the first tributaries of the Po, which it joins just east of here.

Along the Airasca to Moretta cycle path, passing the first of a string of former train stations we’ll pass in the coming miles. I think this is the twelfth station on the line, starting from the north end.

Number 11. It looks like there’s some effort to preserve these. At least the ivy that had consumed it in the past has been killed off.

Vigone, one of the larger of the old towns along the line.

I’ve looked at Vigone from both sides now.

A perfect poplar patch, one that just fills the frame.

Number 5. If we were staying another day I’d like to go back and collect the whole set.

Pigeon roost, at the abandoned Scalenghe passenger depot.

The trail is very well maintained and well marked. At each town you pass through there’s an information panel like this showing the nearby highlights.

I’ve not noticed before. Are rose hips color-coordinated with their associated blossoms?

We’ve been stopped by washed out roads and bridges. We’ve been stopped by construction projects. We’ve been stopped by landslides. We’ve been stopped by accidents. But we’ve never been stopped by a brigade of leaf blowers until today. They refused to let us pass, and we had to detour onto the busy highway for a mile to get around them.

Back into Saluzzo, excited to be checking into our new room.

Let there be - - - heat! It’s October 15th, and the heat can come back on!

Video sound track: Un Cuore Malato (A sick heart), by Gigi d’Alessio & Lara Fabian

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Patrick O'HaraStunning shots in today's entry, Scott.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraThanks, Patrick. Really a great day. Saluzzo is really worth a detour. And just west of here is the Italian side of Col Angel, which in a different life I’d love to bike: https://www.climbbybike.com/climb/Col-Agnel-Colle-dellAgnello/1894.
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3 years ago

Ride stats today: 47 miles, 600’; for the tour: 2,112 miles, 74,800‘

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 2,112 miles (3,399 km)

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