In Hasselt: day ride to Sant-Truiden

August 18, 2021

Today, like yesterday, is one in which rain was threatened throughout the day. We weren’t sure whether we’d take a ride today until checking this morning’s forecast and finding that although it was to be overcast and cool all day, the threat of rain had moved out until midafternoon. Over breakfast I hurriedly looked at the map for ride ideas and focused on Sant-Truiden, a small town to the southwest because it seemed like the right distance for a modest outing. The decision was finalized when I looked up the town for more information and found that it included a designated world heritage site.

The Belfries of Belgium and France is an interesting world heritage site designation. It covers a collection of 58 mostly secular historical buildings in Belgium and French Flanders, including the Sant-Truiden city hall. Looking down the list, I saw that we have already seen one other designated building, in this photograph from Antwerp’s Grote Markt that I failed to include earlier. And, because I’m including this now I finally bothered to look up the imposing statue in the square. it’s an impressive statue, portraying a good story. The principle figure is Brabo, the legendary Roman who freed the city from the giant that terrorized skippers landing here by cutting off their hand if they refused to pay tribute. Bravo slew the giant, cut off his head and hand, and threw the hand into the river Scheldt (as portrayed in the statue). The name Antwerp comes from the word Antwerpen, or throwing a hand.

Antwerp’s city hall, the astonishing building lining one side of the Grote Markt. In front is the statue of Brabo, the Legendary Roman responsible for the name of the city.

So it was nice to have a goal for today’s ride, but mostly we were hoping to get a nice ride in to earn our dinner while hopefully staying dry. To our surprise it was possibly the best ride of the tour so far, full of small surprises and delights. Beautiful countryside, with miles of riding down quiet lanes past woodlots and diverse croplands - pear and apple orchards seem to be the dominant crop. The biggest surprise though was the town of Sant-Truiden, a small place with a delightful center and more to offer than just it’s renowned belfry. We broke up the ride there with a snack lunch at a cafe on the Grote Markt, and then biked home.

Heading southwest from Hasselt. The first seven or eight miles of the ride were on bike paths like this, alongside the road and passing through suburbs and small villages. As we got further from town the countryside got steadily greener and more agricultural.

Hee, haw! This young donkey saw me coming, brayed, and ran my direction. He soon lost interest though when he saw we weren’t offering a handout.

We’re in Limburg, which claims to be a cycling paradise. From today’s experience we have to agree.

A black grouse? I don’t think I’ve ever seen a grouse in Europe.

The Kaiserzall (Emperor’s Hall), Sant-Truiden.

The Kaiserzall. There’s a laughing at myself funny story here. I was crowded against a wall trying to get far enough back to capture the whole structure, standing next to two women doing the same thing. Suddenly there was a flushing sound behind me, as I was in the entryway of an open-air public urinal.

Sant-Truiden’s Grote Markt, with the town hall at its opposite end.

Video sound track: The Missing Piece, by Yasmin Williams

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Ride stats today: 41 miles, 700’; for the tour: 266 miles, 3,400’

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 266 miles (428 km)

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Rich FrasierYessss! This is the sweet Belgium that gets left out of the tourist literature. I’m so glad you’re experiencing it!!
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Rich FrasierJust my kind of place, full of beautiful sites and eateries but not to big!
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3 years ago