Surely the bike angels were riding with me on this trip. Despite an ungodly amount of rain this summer in upstate New York, I had perfect weather nearly the entire way across the state. Not a single dog even attempted to chase me. I had no flats or mechanical problems. My physical problems were limited to some knee woes that came and went on day 3 outside Utica. If you are new to bike touring, let me warn you that none of this is normal.

I camped out for the first time ever. Carrying the camping gear gave me the confidence to ride over 100 miles on my first day. I will definitely bring my camping stuff with me on future bike tours.

Bike Route 5 was a mixed blessing. With the exception of a couple of hills near Little Falls and in downtown Schenectady, it is unbelievably flat. (East of Albany is another story but I didn't go that far.) The traffic west of Schenectady was fast and occasionally heavy, but there was always plenty of room on the shoulder for Nellie and me. If you plan on riding between Schenectady and Albany, by all means take the Canal Trail instead of Bike Route 5. In addition to at least one missing road sign in Schenectady, this section of Route 5 is a nasty combination of inadequate shoulders and aggressive drivers. As a former Boston cabbie, I consider myself an authority on bad driving. Schenectady drivers are truly awful. I'd rather ride in DC traffic than Schenectady any day.

Very few people, adults and children alike, in upstate New York wear a helmet. To make matters worse, they ride on the wrong side of the road. It's no wonder that I heard "Get on the sidewawk!"

The towpath on the canal from Palmyra west is terrific. Until I processed my film a few days after the trip, I had forgotten the beauty and serenity of the canal in the early morning fog near Fairport. Being able to talk to the boaters as they float by is a pleasant change from the usual bike touring experience. An out and back tour from Lockport to Palmyra would make a great first tour.

If I could do it again I'd change very little, except I'd add a day and take side trips to Lake Ontario and the Angel Moroni Hill. With a couple more days, I'd even consider taking in Watkins Glen at the far end of Seneca Lake. I'd also definitely take the bike trail from Schenectady to Albany.

With any sort of luck 2005 will bring the third Spaghetti Bike Tour. I already have some ideas