Thorlakshofn to Grindavik: into the wind and sun

June 30, 2013

I took my time packing up this morning. There was no reason to rush, and the morning had developed into the promise of a beautiful day. I decide to go west, because it did not involve backtracking, and there were campsites and stores available along the route. The ride was mostly through lava fields. Relatively flat for most of the way, with the occasional small hill just for entertainmant. I just kept cranking away and sang to myself snatches of various songs, none of which I remembvered in its entirety. The road was virtually deserted so I wasn't bothering anyone, except maybe the occasional sheep. Passing Strandarkirkja, I debated with myself about stopping for coffee, but just after the turn-off there was a long downhill and by the time I decided to stop I was way past it. So I rode on. The wind was gradually picking up, but nothing I couldn't handle. There were other cyclotourists on the road going the other way. We waved at each other, but did not stop to chat.

I could see this light house for a long ways. I spent about an hour from the time I first spotted it until I actually passed it.

I stopped to answer nature's call at a stream flowing out of the hills. The water is very clear, but very cold, even though you can see thermal vents in the distance.

Although they don't show in the picture, there were sheep nearby the stream, so I didn't drink from it.

One quickly develops a fine eye for lava. These formations caught my eye.

Finally Grindavik came in sight, but wouldn't you know, the road turned inland and I began the worst climb of the day. It seems the old road, which hugged the coast, dropped into the ocean and the new road has to circle inland around an old volcanic cone. In the process the road climbs 150+ meters in one and a half kilometers, an over 10% grade. I stopped once on the way up to catch my breath, and then dropped down the other side brakes shrieking every time I slowed down. At the bottom of the hill the road rejoined the coast. I stopped to take a few photos, but once again the arctic terns were nesting nearby and they drove me down the road toward Grindavik.

The houses are new, but the stone walls are very old. Some may date to Viking times, but are most probably 16th century or later.

Grindavik campground was inviting, and well sited at the edge of the town. I chose a spot near two other cycletourists, one Aussie of German origin, the other an Englishman with one arm riding a trike around the ring road. We exchanged pleasntries and then I went off to shower and find a bite to eat. There is a restaurnt very near the campground and they feature fresh fish, so I had cod and chips with a beer to wash it down.

The rest of the afternoon I wandered around the town looking at birds and fishing boats. Dinner was fish again, haddock this time, and I allowed myself a glass of wine to go with it. Bedtime was early.

Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 347 km (215 miles)

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