The Phantom Menace

September 18, 2024

Sylvan Beach to Little Falls

This morning marks the first day of the second half of the trip. 56 degrees displayed on the thermometer this September morning and we rode out of the Airbnb and onto the residential street.

Riding out of our apartment and towards the Empire Trail.

Last night we rerouted and decided we would head due ESE to connect with the trail crossing. This action led us down 2.6 miles of a completely straight road. When given a choice Kath prefers the trail to the road as she's fearful of vehicular traffic. Fear leads to anger. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering. And even though these roads are probably very rarely traveled traffic could certainly fly by at 50+mph. But during the entire 10 days of the trip we had zero problems with vehicle drivers.

Completely straight road for almost 3 miles. I told Kath I bet no more than 5 cars will pass us. I think we ended up with 8.

Only 4.4 miles of quiet roads this morning and we're back on the trail. It's not well marked so we nearly rode past the trail at this point. Yoosa should follow me now, okeeday? (Um...very sorry I used a Jar Jar quote here, but it seemed to fit)

We cross over the canal on our way to Rome NY in search of second breakfast. While the bagels did their job of providing calories early in the morning, after 16 miles we were ready for a full breakfast at McDonald's.

We are "locked" and loaded crossing at Lock 21

On the way to the McD's on the outskirts of Rome, we passed by Erie Canal Village. It looks as if it's shut down and maybe not just for the season. I was going to attempt to explore the place but there were some people who looked like they were living out of a trailer on the property - maybe they were the owners, maybe the squatters but this is a battle I do not think I could win.

McD's gave us the energy and calories in right portion of protein+carbohydrates we needed and then we rode through downtown. On one block we spotted a church whose roof was missing and then noticed several more properties with similar damage. It turns out a tornado came ripping up the street 2 months prior to our journey. And sadly to say it looks as though some of those properties are going to be condemned.

Holy Tornado damage, Batman! What I initially thought was a congregation whose church had fallen victim to neglect and vandalism turns out it was a tornado 2 months prior to our journey.

We chat with the park rangers at Fort Stanwix not about the fort but about the tornado. Turns out no lives were lost but there was definitely property damage. The crazy thing about tornadoes is their damage is so focused. One street was badly hit while homes across that same street virtually untouched. We left that area, reconnected with the trail, and crossed over the canal again.

Much better route leaving Rome. In 2017, somehow I ended up on a divided 4-lane 60+ road (with a large shoulder). I made for the first exit and then navigated sideways until I could find my way back to the trail.

If you're camping the trail, Lock 20 has a really nice location. Bike rack to lock your bike, picnic tables, trees for hammock camping and a restroom across the lock

We're crossing through Utica and Kath informs me her battery is getting to low levels. I have a bad feeling about this. The battery on an eBike is really The Phantom Menace. It's there providing power assist to her pedaling but once that assist is gone it turns an easy-to propel bike into a 35+ pound machine PLUS panniers. It's menacing because you cannot see the power only what it provides to the pedals - when it's gone, it becomes so much more difficult.

So we need to find an outlet because today is the longest day of the tour at 60 miles and her bike doesn't have that range. While recharging was always the plan some point today we haven't passed through any areas to find that elusive electric outlet. The battery gauge creeps down as we click off the miles and Kath fears the worst. Don't center on your anxieties, Kath. Keep your concentration here and now, where it belongs. We then find ourselves really in the middle of nowhere when the battery dies. But within 2 miles or so we find a diner and decide to get ice cream. Nope. unlike the ice cream shop 6 days ago that stopped serving lunch and only served ice cream, this one stopped serving ice cream and now only serves lunch. No outlets at the restaurant. But I have a feeling there's one on this commercial structure. We find a live outlet around the back of the shop and charge for 90 minutes which should be ample juice for the final 20 miles.

Bike adventure is not all about scenic picnic spots. Here, we recharge Kath's eBike and eat snacks for 90 minutes.

We see some boat traffic along the canal as we make our way towards Little Falls. Many boaters traveling the "Great Loop" use the canal to traverse the distance between the Hudson River and the Great Lakes.

A trawler makes its way westbound along the canal

To get to Little Falls, one has to cross over the canal again. I made it across the bridge first and saw Kath walking over. OK, she's chosen to walk the pedestrian sidewalk. I'll coast down the hill on the other side and wait, but then she comes walking down the hill. What's all this then? I wonder. I ride back up and turns out she flatted on the way in. And of course it's the rear tire.

The Stone Inn is the second large building from the left. Used to be a factory. Now it houses the Inn, a pizza place, self-service bike shop, UPS store, cafe. Really cool.

Now, as luck would have it there is a self-serve bicycle shop in this stone building. Self-serve, right? they have tubes, bike parts, a repair stand. Now I can wrench with the best of them so bring it on, I say. Kath checks into the hotel while I head to the shop. I purchase a tube for $10 since I figure I'd rather not use the last tube when one is right in front of me. Better to have one down the road and not need it than save $10 and need an emergency fix later and not have one. But I figured one does not simply "flat out" on the bike and there's something amiss. Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts. My instincts are correct when I find a small wire from a tire retread. That's the culprit. I remove it with needle-nose pliers, reinsert the tire, and we're good to go!

Skills I have! I used the self-serve shop to repair the bike and found the cause of the sudden loss of pressure in the rear tire.

We walk to the Main Street to dine at Ruggiero's Italian. Food is good. Following, we hop into the Price Chopper grocery across the street to stock tomorrow's on-ride snacks, and then make our way to Stewart's Shops for ice cream. Stewart's has always had two things - (1) great ice cream and (2) very reasonably-priced portions. Can't beat either of those things.

Little Falls crossing over the canal towards Moss Island. Very pretty little village.

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Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 322 miles (518 km)

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