Bellecombe-en-Bauges to Belley: A Taste of the Via Rhona
We awoke to yet more blue skies today, as the sun gradually peeked over the hills of the massif and filled the valley with light. Michel had already visited the local boulangerie for fresh baguettes and croissants, and breakfast was waiting for us on the upper deck at 8am. It was hard to pull ourselves away from the view overlooking the valley but we were enticed by the prospects of a long downhill ride to Aix Les Bains on the Lac de Bourget. We had decided on Belley as a destination simply because it looked like a good way of splitting the mileage in the next two days and avoiding the most congested areas around Aix les Bains and the south end of the lake.
Breakfast on the deck with a view at Les Perelles, near Bellecombe-en-Bauges.
It was a stress free cruise down to Aix Les Bains through a small canyon in the Bauges. The traffic at Aix Les Bains however, intensified and we were pleased to turn north and cycle along the shore of the Lac de Bourget where part of the road is cantilevered over the lake.
Leaving the Bauges Massif, it was a beautiful gentle downhill cruise.
View across Lac de Bourget of the Hautecombe Abbey, founded in the 12th century. It contains the graves of many counts of Savoy and around thirty princes and princesses.
At the north end of the lake is a large marsh where the 4.5km long Canal de Savière connects the Rhone to Lac de Bourget. After riding through the marsh, wondering about all the wildlife that would thrive in such a place, we came upon the small village of Chanaz situated on the canal. Large umbrellas along the canal weren’t an indication of a market but of people enjoying their leisurely lunches served by the restaurants across the road.
When we looked closer, we saw that the Via Rhona cycle network passed on the other side of the canal and it was headed in our direction. We had one very high pedestrian bridge to cross in order to reach the trail, its height due to the fact that barges and tour boats travel along this tiny waterway. In fact, the canal was built for the purpose of and was a very important corridor for transporting goods and people between the Rhone and Lac de Bourget back in the day.
We sailed happily along the Via Rhona for a while, crossing two 'barriere canadienne', otherwise known as cattle guards, although there was no evidence of cattle in the area. The pavement is in very good condition here and if you like cycle paths, this one gets a good rating. We soon left it however to make our way to the town of Belley, our last stop before completing the journey.
A barriere canadienne (cattle guard) will keep any cattle from proceeding along the trail.
Belley is a sizeable town perched on a hilltop. It had become hot by the time we arrived and I was completely drenched in sweat. After cooling down we set out on foot to explore the town, find a bar for our daily pression (beer on tap) and choose a restaurant for dinner. Belley did not disappoint.
Cooling off with a cold pression was a daily ritual.
Knowing that the tour is coming to an end is always an odd feeling. We have spent every day of the past 27 days on the road, surrounded by nature, eating delicious meals and meeting the nicest people. I don't know where the energy comes from but I feel fresh and I exhilarated at the start of every day. We are most comfortable on the saddle with legs spinning and now it's time to return to city living where we will reflect on all the experiences we have had. There's one ride remaining to return to our chambre d'hote where it all began a month ago.
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles) Total: 1,346 km (836 miles)
