October 25, 2018
To Saluzzo
The last several days of cycling spoiled us a bit. Much of today was a more normal experience, biking on the primary route southwest from Asti to Saluzzo. The road was safe enough - not much traffic, tolerant drivers - but too busy to be able to relax, and not along a particularly scenic corridor. There are alternatives, but in this wrinkled country a quiet route would be much longer and much hillier - more than we really had room for today. Knowing what we know now, we probably wouldn’t pick this itinerary. We’d take two days, and maybe head east toward Turin or south to Alba, and then bend toward Saluzzo.
But then, as you’ll have guessed, if we do this again we wouldn’t be in Asti at all.
We did get off the main road for part of the day though. In one glorious stretch, we climbed up into the hills to a ridge road that more or less paralleled the highway, was ultra quiet, and staggeringly beautiful. Then, closer to Saluzzo, we escaped onto the network of farming roads that crisscross the upper Po Valley. All of the photos for the day are from these side excursions, and demonstrate the rule that if you want to see anything really interesting on a bike, you need to get onto the roads less traveled.
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6 years ago
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Arriving in Saluzzo, we pushed our bikes up through the steep cobblestone streets to our hotel. At the desk we were greeted with surprise, and the unwelcome statement that we were not expected and no rooms were available. We pulled out our reservation, which was for the correct day - but in November, not October. So close! We only missed it by one month. An unprecedented lapse by the planning team - the second booking error in the same month.
Fortunately, the very helpful hotel manager quickly located alternate lodging for us quite nearby, and further up the hill a few more blocks. And so, tonight we find ourselves in a place we would never have chosen on our own, but are happy to experience as long as we’ve been forced into it: the four star San Giovanni Resort Hotel, a conversion of a former convent. It’s an elegant place, immediately beneath a large, ancient church tower. It will be interesting to hear in the morning if churchbells from just outside our window deafen us awake.
This hotel only has a vacancy for tonight, so tomorrow we’ll relocate to a B&B we found down in the village. A bit inconvenient, but we’ll be more comfortable there.
So, that’s the lodging situation. The town itself is amazing though -Saluzzo is for us everything that Asti was not. We fall in love with it immediately - great atmosphere, beautiful, walkable, bikeable. I’ll have more to say abou Saluzzo, tomorrow.
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6 years ago
6 years ago
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Ride stats today: 48 miles, 2,100’
Today's ride: 48 miles (77 km)
Total: 1,938 miles (3,119 km)
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6 years ago