Rainout in Agde

November 23, 2018

We expected to get rained out today. In fact, that was the main reason we decided to come to Agde and spend two nights here - we can read the weather report, and wanted to land someplace large enough where we might find something to do while we waited out the weather for a day.

We’re staying in the historic part of the city, inland a few miles from the coast. We could have stayed on the coast instead, which is well known for its great naturist beaches; but this seemed like a poor season and day for appreciating that so we opted for staying close to the history instead.

And Agde has a lot of history. Founded in 825 BC, it was a Greek colony settled by the Phoenicians; its odd name is derived from the Greek expression for good fortune. It is the third oldest city in France, following nearby Marseilles and Béziers.

Among its distinguishing characteristics, much of the ancient city was built from volcanic basalt quarried from nearby Mont Saint-Loup (confusing, but this is a different formation than Pic Saint-Loup north of Montpellier that we biked around a few days back). Its most visible landmark is Saint Stephen Cathedral, a massive black basalt 12th century structure that looks more like a fortress than a cathedral - in fact, its huge tower serves as a keep.

The city sits on the Hérault River, just upstream from its mouth on the sea. It also sits on the Canal du Midi, which arrives here from Béziers and continues east to Sete. Agde is the site of the final lock on the canal, one that is unique to the canal and perhaps to the world - as far as I’ve determined, it is the only ‘round lock’ still in use. It is a three way gate (built of black basalt, of course), with a large circular basin at its center so that barges can rotate and enter the desired gate. One goes to Béziers, one to the Etang de Thau and Sète, and one to the Hérault River and the sea.

The Agde waterfront, the Hérault River, and Saint Stephen Cathedral.

It was overcast but dry this morning, with a rainless window predicted for the next few hours. We packed our umbrellas just to be on the safe side, and took a short walk from our hotel (about a block from the cathedral) to the famous round lock. We didn’t know how far we might walk, but we thought we’d get as much exercise in as we could while it was dry, and see the city later.

We didn’t get much of a walk in, and the one we had was pretty haphazard and confusing. After walking along the canal to the lock we decided to continue walking along the branch that continues to Sete. Not far past the lock though, we were barred from passage by an aggressive dog apparently protecting a nearby houseboat. We backtracked to the lock and tried again, following the road instead of the canal path. The dog found us there too, but let us edge past on the far side of the road.

Soon after, it started to rain so we turned back, walking quietly in hopes that the dog would not hear us. Back at the lock for the third time, we walked back toward town on the opposite bank of the canal just for variety sake. This path ends at a footbridge across the canal, but it was unfortunately locked. So, back to the gate a fourth time, and finally back to town - after hiding under athe railway overpass to wait out a short, intense cloudburst.

That was about it for our explorations for the day. We returned to our room to dry off, went out to a nearby bar for lunch (and enjoyed watching our waitress give English counting lessons to her animated two year old son), and then walked over to briefly visit the cathedral before retiring to our warm, dry room for the afternoon.

The foot bridge across the near end of the canal. We planned to cross over his on our return walk.

I was focused on the pigeon convention barring the bridge, but I might have also noted the locked gate at the opposite end and factored it into our plans.

The famous Agde round lock, looking in the direction of Béziers. The Hérault exit is on the left, and the Sete exit is behind me.

Perhaps we won’t take this route after all. Let’s go back to the lock and try again.

Looking back toward the lock, after finally passing our nemesis who still eyes us closely on the right.

Under the train bridge, waiting out a squall

Here’s as much as we’ll see of the old city today. Note the basalt buildings that still form the core of the town.

Right before sunset, I by chance looked up and saw tha5that it was suddenly bright outside. Looking out the window and seeing a bright double rainbow, I quickly put on my shoes, grabbed the camera and dashed outside. I think I was on the bridge across the Herault less than five minutes after looking out the window. Too late for the best of the show, but the sky was still dramatically beautiful.

Leaving the bridge, I met up with Rachael who had been a bit slower to step out. We still had a bit of light left, so we strolled through town finding some of the best sights and admiring the illuminated walls, fountain, bridge, and cathedral. We didn’t see much of the town itself, but we’ll look again in the morning when we bike out.

Too late for the best of the show, but still worth stepping outside. I wish I’d been five minutes earlier though.

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