Layover in Genoa: Thursday

November 1, 2018

After logging a total of two miles in the last four days, we’re both getting antsy to get on our bikes again. Luck is with us today, and the weather looks to be dry for most of the day. At Rachael’s urging, I conjure up a ride that goes up into the hills, the fastest route for escaping the city. I was a bit sceptical about how well it would work to take a day ride from bike unfriendly Genoa, but Rachael urged me to look harder and find something, or else.

Our ride begins with about seven miles upstream along the Bisagno, a minor Ligurian stream that reaches the sea just east of the main train station. Both banks of the stream are well developed the whole way, but the riding is really much more manageable than I’d expected. There’s no shoulder or bike lane on the left bank road, but there’s not much traffic either - mostly locals and shoppers, driving fairly slowly. All the fast traffic is on the primary road on the east bank. The lane is wide, cars are respectful and give clearance. The main issue is to keep alert to the parked cars so we don’t get doomed, and to merge in with the traffic when we evade double parkers.

The Bisnago is pretty dull today. All of the streams and rivers around here got a big boost from this week’s storm.

Looking north up the Bisnago, with the green hills not far off to the north.

A small slide, presumably due to the storm, gives us the road to ourselves for a short distance

Seven miles into the ride, our road comes to an end. We cross the stream and join the main highway for about a half mile, and then turn off at Cavassolo onto a quiet side road that leaves the stream and quickly starts climbing. A few switchbacks later, we’re well up the wall of the narrow valley, and starting to enjoy some impressive views. For the next twelve miles we climb steadily, until we reach our turnback point in Scoffera.

It’s really a lovely ride, and an eye opener for me. I’m surprised at how quickly we escaped the city and found ourselves in the rich, rugged hills of Liguria. I especially enjoy the many small waterfalls we pass as we climb - probably twenty or thirty of them. They’re closely spaced, so we’re almost always within earshot of one. As the sounds of one start to fade out shins us, we hear the next one up the road. It almost feels like we’re biking along a stream.

Also, I really enjoy the many villages tucked up into these hills. This country has a bit different feel to it, and one that at once feels familiar to me - it reminds sis of our ride south through Liguria to Sestri Levanto twenty five years ago, a ride that was one of our favorites from our first European tour, and that we have reminisced on many times over the years.

Looking back down on the Bisnago. Genoa is just around the bend to the right.

The same view, from another few hundred feet higher up.

Rachael, the rear and side view. I’m still looking for a spot with a Second well placed mirror so we can see her from the front as well.

There’s more riding to be done beyond Scaffwra. You could continue on north, and with another half day’s ride find yourself in southern Piemonte. Or, you could explore some of the quiet roads east and west of here. That had been part of our plan, actually - we had mapped out an additional ten mile loop to tack on from here. When the time came though, we voted against the idea. It is quickly growing surprisingly chilly, and the sky over the coast is graying up fast. We’re a bit anxious about pushing our luck too far and decide to coast back down and get home dry.

Conditions have changed considerably over the last hour or two. We’ll make it home dry, but the rains will return later in the evening.

In the evening, we decide to celebrate a bit and splurge with a dinner at our palatial hotel. Rachael saw a dish on the menu that sounded irresistible, and she won’t be talked out of it: sea bass roll, with tomatoes, olives and pesto. The real star of the meal though was the appetizer - tapenade, served in an edible shell of parmesan crust.

Afterwards, I step out one last time to look around Geneva after dark. I’m feeling good about myself - I recognize landmarks, I know where I’m going, and I’m pleased to find that I know my way around this busy city just a bit. I’m wrong though - I recognize a lot of landmarks from my earlier wanderings, but I don’t really know where I’m going after all. I wander around for about a half before finally stumbling back into our neighborhood, wondering why I was stupid enough to step out without a phone or GPS again. What a dope!

My favorite wine shot of the tour so far. I like color coordinated it is with the table.

New haircut! Rachael thinks I’ve got a weird expression on my face, and she’s right. I can’t help it though. It’s the only face I’ve got to work with.

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Ride stats today: 37 miles, 2,500’

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 2,060 miles (3,315 km)

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