I’ve had a longing to visit Trieste for many years - as long as I can remember, really. I couldn’t quite say why, but I think it began in my childhood days perusing the family’s world atlas. When I was a child, Trieste piqued my interest and puzzled me because it was then a type of entity I didn’t really understand: the Free Territory of Trieste, a small United Nations protectorate that was created after the end of the Second World War. Comprising what is now the city of Trieste, together with what is now coastal Slovenia and northern Istria, it was created as a buffer between Italy and Yugoslavia to manage border issues of a culturally and politically complex area. All of yesterday’s ride was within what was once the Free Territory of Trieste.
Beyond that, I was also drawn in by an essay on Trieste in Among the Cities, a work of travel writing by Jan Morris. I read it perhaps forty years ago, before I’d done any real travel of my own, and felt like it had something to say to me about what travel was for and about. And, as far as that goes, I was intrigued by Morris too. A Welsh transsexual, he was born James Morris and took up travel writing after being stationed in Trieste during its occupation at the end of the war. When I first was aware of Morris, he still went under his born identity. I think Morris is the first transsexual I was ever aware of, and I was pretty perplexed by it, probably even a bit shocked.
So, finally here we are. Based on this visit, we should have come sooner and we should come back some day. Trieste is a remarkable city, with one delightful surprise after another. It feels more Middle European than Mediterranean, and reminded me a bit of Vienna. It has some wonderful public spaces - in particular, the splendid Piazza dell’ Unita d’Italia, the largest sea facing square in Europe and one of the most impressive squares I recall seeing anywhere. And the richness of its architecture is astonishing - you could get a stiff neck from craning to look up at the sculptures of heroes, muses, warriors and noblemen adorning one landmark building after another. Also, it has a more down to earth feel than other, more popular of the great European cities - it isn’t completely overrun by tourists, spaces are more open, and it feels like a real working city.
I apologize for the overly large album in this post, but every time we went out we found new wonders worth remembering. It’s a very enchanting place.
Steve Miller/GrampiesSo weird. The figures at the top each have one swollen arm, and the one at the bottom has a bag over its head, while holding a VW clutch plate, or something. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI noticed the veiled woman, who looks pretty grotesque closer up; but I’d missed the swollen arms. I haven’t found a description of this yet, but maybe it has a healing theme. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
I encountered this ‘running’ troupe on the way to breakfast. They would assemble, chat, check their phones, and then take a leisurely lope across the piazza. And repeat.
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesHe was having a lot of fun, wheeling around the square and then charging through the flock again. I was lucky to catch a decent shot of him. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnHe was having a great time, alright. Not so great for the poor pigeons, but it helps keep their wits sharp. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Kathleen ClassenWhat a great shot! I didn’t notice the pigeon over his shoulder at first. An even better photo. Keith Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Kathleen ClassenJust lucky. I was focused on trying to get his face, and the pigeon was just a bonus. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Shawn AndersonI know. I get lucky every once in a while. Actually, he reminded me of you, about forty years ago. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
We were both a bit shocked by how windy and cold it was on our second evening. Note the two kids in the background - they’ve been prancing around this pond nonstop for the last several minutes. I think they were inspired by the aerobics workout a short distance away.
Bruce LellmanNote: Not to be confused for those googling Jan Morris, she was actually born James Morris not John. Easy mistake. Reply to this comment 6 years ago